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Zappa Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Corner T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Zig-Zag T 

Zappa Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.64055, -108.38967 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,717
Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Brad Edwards, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 11, 2011
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Description 

This is one of the better cliffs at Escalante. It probably has the highest concentration of quality routes besides the Green Machine Wall. There are several plaques at the base of the routes, but much information is scattered. Many would prefer it stay this way....

Getting There 

Drive six miles from the Cabin Wall. The canyon starts to open up on the right side.

There are several faint trails heading up to different parts of the cliff. There is parking on the opposite side of the road. From here, follow the most distinct trail up a ridge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 17.3 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Zappa Wall:
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Short, Some Hands   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
OW Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Curve   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Short Corner   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Beside the Pillar   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dirty Red Cam Corner   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Flake (unknown there was no plaque)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Zig-Zag   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hands to OW   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Big Hands Roof   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Fork It (HVS)   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Calcite Fingers   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Zappa Wall

Featured Route For Zappa Wall
The irony is that I didn't place any 0.75s on the whole pitch. None fit. It is all 0.5 inch cams up the slightly overhanging dihedral.

Green Cam Lie Back 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CO : Grand Junction area : ... : Zappa Wall
Protect with lots of green cams up the perfect dihedral. No rest comes until the dihedral disappears and it becomes a thin crack into a offwidth....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Zappa Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Into the night.
Into the night.
Left side of the Zappa Wall - climber is on "The Curve".
Left side of the Zappa Wall - climber is on "The C...
Routes.
Routes.
A view.
A view.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Overview of Zappa Left. <br />The farthest route on the right side is referred to as The Curve.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Zappa Left.
The farthest route on the ...

Comments on Zappa Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kangaru Rat
From: Under a Rock
Mar 25, 2011
Jesse - most of the routes you have posted in this section were established by previous generations of climbers and have different names or are unnamed. To use convenient modern names is disrespectful to the history of the area. There is a reason the cliff is called the Zappa Wall. If a route name is not known, then it should be listed simply as “Unknown”. It is inappropriate to rewrite history.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 25, 2011
As the internet, and therefore Mountain Project, is not static or fixed, I am not rewriting anything. I am very aware of the fact that all of these routes have been done and re-done again. My intentions are not to claim any of these route as mine, or to rewrite history as you say. As names and FA parties become available, I will change and update the routes. I do not agree that it is disrespectful. I simply give it a name to differentiate between climbs as having 20-30 "unknowns" would be confusing. In my mind, part of putting the Zappa Wall and other walls on here serves as a whipping post for sussing out the history as it has quiet a mixed bag of info. If you have names and FA parties, please let me know, so that I may provide the due credit.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 25, 2011
I have gone through the route names and eliminated some of the wording that is not purely descriptive.
By Kangaru Rat
From: Under a Rock
Mar 26, 2011
Thank you for being forward in addressing route names, Jesse. I understand that you are trying to be helpful rather than claiming routes. The use of descriptions in the “name field” of listed climbs is interpreted as a name whether that is the intent or not. Even if most climbers understand the difference, the descriptions have a way of turning into names over time. If succinct references to climbs are needed, consider a numbering system – Unknown 1, 2 or A, B, etc.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 26, 2011
I will agree with that. When I have some time, I will go through and redo the pictures/ route descriptions.
-Jesse
By DFrench
From: The Shrew, MA
May 22, 2011
I completely disagree with Kangaru Rat.

Jesse, I think you've done a great job adding these routes to the database. It is the necessary first step in the process of compiling an accurate history of the area. If people with any helpful information (pay attention Kangaru Rat) want to offer their knowledge of the routes or the area's history, then they are free to do so and the routes can be updated appropriately.

Until then, I don't think it is necessary to pollute the database with countless "unknowns" or "route As". Jesse's descriptions are sufficient and respectful.
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 10, 2011
Thank you for adding pictures and route info.
By rob pizem
Feb 18, 2013
Just to reaffirm that we are not trying to rename anything out here. It is just easier to refer to previously established routes (without a shared written history) with a name that is descriptive of the crack itself. Anyone with actual information (names) feel free to share them and they can and will be updated.