Zapatista 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | James Harrison, Matt Greco, Chad Cassidy, & Jeb Vetters - 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Robert MacKinnon on Jul 7, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: the last pitch. awesome
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Description P1: 5.11a
P2: 5.11b
P3: 5.11d
P4: 5.12a
P5: 5.11b
This route is supposedly excellent (please rate it and add info if you have done it). Like 3 Stone Place, the pitches are long (up to 50m) so you’ll want 18-20 draws plus two ropes to descend.
Descent: There's 4 raps. From the top rap even to the top of the 4th pitch but to the anchor 8m left of it. The next rap is 50m and goes straight down to gold rap rings above a yucca plant. Then 30m down and right, followed by the last rap of 50m to the ground.
Location: Hike up the mining road for a couple of minutes and turn left on the trail for El Bobo. Follow the red painted arrows/dots up past El Bobo (the dunce-hat-shaped formation) and continue up the third class ridge. When you get to the red arrows pointing in different directions head right for the Zapatista route. There may be a fixed line over the scree to the base of the route.
BETA PHOTO: 3rd or 11d pitch. great technical climbing
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By Patrick Bagley
Sep 27, 2008
| The first two pitches are probably easier than 5.11 and not very memorable. The 5.11d pitch was solid for the grade, bouldery and memorable. The 5.12a pitch was particularly hard for the grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off? The last 5.11b pitch was exposed, memorable and rad. Despite the route being pretty cool, I probably wouldn't do it again. |
By Calvin Laatsch
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 7, 2012
| This was my favorite climb at Potrero. I liked it more than 3 Stone Place and El Diablo Sendero. Bold Climbing, great exposure, and a wild setting. |
By ben dorsey
From: lake louise, AB
Dec 26, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| We took two 70 meter ropes b/c that is what we had. we only made one double rope rappel on the second rap. It seemed like we could have swung over to the start of the 12a pitch and rapped from there. I am curious if a 70m will make it to the gold rings b/c this would lighten the load and logistics.
Great route!
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