Zamboni Man 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Bill Schmausser, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003 |
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At the second crux.
Photo by Brian R.
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Description This is the sport climb on the arete/face to the right of Hollow Flake that Roger Wilkerson mentioned. Climb the right side of the pillar just to the right of the Hollow Flake start. The cracks at the top protect well with small gear. Swing onto the face, and follow the line of four bolts to the top. Belay/rap from the anchors above Hollow Flake. The crux is just before the fourth bolt where the face thins. Good friction.
Protection Four bolts, small gear protects the start.
Starting the third crux sequence.
Photo by Brian ...
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Nan leading Zamboni Man, just below the first crux...
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I met these two nice men at the base of Zamboni Ma...
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Those nice men did let me try out their shoes thou...
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By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.10c
| Wow, what a cool route...this is the first pitch of the Sprout Route. Starts off with a .7 move then a .8 then .9 then is in the .10 range through most of the top...fun moves right on the arete with a little exposure. |
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 7, 2005
| This is not the first pitch of The Sprout Route. I don't know what the name is or who did it. Anyone want to claim it? The first pitch of The Sprout is just to the right and clings past 2 bolts then up thin cracks to the Hollow Flake Ledge. Anyway, this arete route is fun and devious. The 4th bolt is hard to clip though and right in the middle of the route crux... |
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2006
| Stew,
That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!
I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.
Cheers,
Bill |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| Great route! Don't know if it's been retro'd, but there are 5 bolts. I'd say the crux was just below (still out of reach) the 4th bolt; secondary crux between the 4th and 5th bolts.
Edit 9/27/10: now that I've led this all the way through, I believe there is also a secondary crux at the second bolt; quite sequential and balancy. |
By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| Really nice climb. I felt the first crux was around 10b and the last move before clipping the 5th bolt was awfully thin to be 5.10. But maybe I missed a hidden hold on the arete side pull. Either way this is a really nice slab climb. |
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| I agree with the two cruxes. I remember at the second bolt my partner saying this must be the business and then he got near the 4th and said, nope this is the business.
Has anyone else swung left after the 4th bolt onto the face and then came back up with the heel hook to get the 5th? It seemed to work well for us and is much easier than it looked. Great route and fun wierd exposure to the left. |
By Paul Kaltenthaler
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 16, 2012
| Bill, good job toting a Bosch up it. I've gawked at people on this for 10 yrs and finally led it on my 43 Bday last summer and was pretty damn proud of it. I thought it was spot on .11-, so let's let an aging rock rat have his pie, ok? |
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