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This climb is not a big crack, it is a finger crack! Many folks go up there with a rack of #4-6 and don't use them.
This climb starts out as just a 5.5 ledge scramble and ends up full on fingers and hands through the crux section and ends up an airy run-out top section before finally clipping the anchors.
This was the first climb ever lead at the New, it was orginally rated a sandbagged 5.7
Obvious zaging crack right of giant roof at approach stairs.
Stnd rack of cams. Nothing over a #3 unless you really want to.
Just above the short crux heading into the runout(...
Rob Rives leading Zag
Pulling the gear on Zag
Dec 2, 2009
1 set: cams, finger size through #2 camalot
double .4, .5, .75 camalot
1 set: med to large nuts
Oct 8, 2010
This climb might feel a little hard for the grade if your hand size is big. Well protected.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 25, 2011
Great Crack climbing leads to moderate face climbing! As a newb to jamming it was a good one for learning to trust finger, hand jams. Great Exposure, aesthetic route and fantastic pro! A Must do if visiting the Bridge area!
|By Alan Howell|
May 8, 2012
Good route but I think its solid 8+ now as it just gets more polished over time.