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Zabba 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dave Aldous
Page Views: 3,649
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Matt McCormick in the low crux of Zabba.

Description 

Zabba is one of the premier hard gear routes in the Northeast if not the country. A redpoint ascent of this beautiful line is an accomplishment of mental and physical skill and has probably only been accomplished less than 10 times! The route begins just left of TR and follows the stunning, flared hand and finger crack past a low 5.12 crack section to a face climbing crux above where the crack disappears. There is a old bolt here but most ascents have eschewed clipping it and in the opinion of most it is unnecessary. Instead, place a large bomber nut and fire through the crux to more tricky climbing before the top and the 2 bolt anchor.

I've chosen to give this route a pg-13 gear rating with an onsight attempt in mind. The beginning of the route is difficult to protect and most place their first piece totally blind. The high crux can result in a pretty good whip but is completely safe!


Location 

Begin 15 feet left of TR.


Protection 

Small to medium cams and a variety of nuts protect the route well. There is a tricky placement off the ground which is placed somewhat blindly. DON'T CLIP THE BOLT!



Photos of Zabba Slideshow Add Photo
Reaching for the miniscule crimp at the crux of Zabba. It seems as though that crimp gets worse and worse each year!
Reaching for the miniscule crimp at the crux of Za...
Comments on Zabba Add Comment
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 14, 2009

Matty,
Thanks for the post. I've been hoping that more folks like you would begin posting route descriptions for the Dacks. Post one for "Another Whack and Dangle Job", would ya?!

By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Dec 20, 2009

One of the best climbs I have done on the east coast. The pg 13 rating is accurate, as the placement of the first piece is a Collaborative effort with one's belayer guiding you to the right spot as you reach out right to the crack to place a nut. I wonder how many more of these gems lay hidden in the daks.

By RadTrad
From: Prescott, Arizona
Apr 28, 2011

Is there any way to get a top rope on this route? or would you have to lead all the routes on the wall?

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Apr 29, 2011

Yeah, so you can top-rope Zabba easily off of TR. I had just led TR a few weeks ago and thought about giving it a rip, but then left it for another day. Get on it! I know it's only seen a handful of ascents.