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Za Uchem means behind the ear. That says it all, the only obvious route on the whole boulder... As soon as I saw the guide book, I knew I had to climb this thing. The book photo makes it look like a nice hand crack. And at only 7 meters should be a quick easy solo. Upon witnessing this beast in person I quickly realized I was in for a battle. The ear starts as a flared slot with a hand crack in the back and quickly widens into an offwidth then squeeze chimney. Luckily there is a chockstone that eases the difficulties. Beta:left side in until the chockstone, grab it, then right side in to the top...
Find the rock and you found the route. From the second you leave the trail the suffering begins. You have to climb the fence then work you way down through all kinds of thorns and brush. And who knows what it is about offwidth cracks in granite that are so inviting to climbers?? After a good old fashioned grovel, bushwhack off the back and back to the fence...
a huge cam? Maybe some bug repellent. No reason for a rope on this one. Even roped a fall would not be nice. If you make it off the ground, you've got it made.