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9. Chimney Buttress
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Abyss, The 
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Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Oct 15, 2006
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X, Y, Z, and Neil.


Climb up to a crack in the roof (hands/fists)and work left around the roof. Continue to the top using the crack and face holds.


Locate a roof with a diagonal roof branching to the left. The route starts below the roof and traverses around it.


Standard top rope setup, placements a little scarce on top bring lots of webbing. Leadable but no pro for first 10 ft or so (5.6ish) until you reach the roof. Pro gets a little thin at the top as well. Can share a TR with Y.

Photos of Z Slideshow Add Photo
me getting spanked by the roofs on Z... first time climbing.
me getting spanked by the roofs on Z... first time...
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 26, 2006

Watch out for a good sized toprope swing if you blow the lower half. Multiple cruxes, the lower half involves awkward off-width traversing and the upper half is just strenuous. An interesting route overall. Watch out for birds (living, sometimes dead, and nests) in the chimney at the route's start.

By Sam Smolnisky
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 14, 2011

Great lead if you have a little bit of large hand to fist sized gear. Fun to work through the bottome crux and move out left under the roof when you're on the sharp end.