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Z-Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 730
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Z-Crack. The red dots indicate the start, first b...

Description 

A surprisingly fun 2 pitch crack route on the left side of the main wall. It doesn't look great from the ground, but it climbs very well and the second pitch is excellent.

Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge. Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available. The final crux face move is protected by a bolt. Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).

Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall. Good gear is available everywhere on this section. Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system. Work left to the base of the final crack. Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack. Step left to the chains.

You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.

Rap the route via chains located at the top. The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack. Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m. If in doubt, bring two ropes!

update! Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time. Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground. A 60m rope might not make this ledge....


Protection 

Two sets of cams from small TCUs to #3 camalot. Nuts including small wires/RPs. Long slings helpful.



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By James Garrett
Jul 3, 2008

This is surprisingly good and the same excellent compact Teton rock found in the "main" part of the range. The first pitch provides about as good layback type crack climbing as it can get!
Two rope rappel gets one to the ground from the hanging belay summit chains. I agree....awkward getting to chains. Why a hanging belay when if placed merely 1m higher it would all have been pleasant? Why the stacked washer/chain combo obsolete station equipping?
Can't beat the approach!

By jeff newsom
Jul 3, 2008

Hi James---
The route originally was done with no bolts and topped out rather than using the anchors to the left.The bolts and chains that now exist were placed for the face route put up just left of the Z-Crack.One bolt on the Z-Crack can easily be avoided and didn't need placing. Some lads from Pocatello unfortunately placed these lame anchors all over the main wall which are now suspect. This is not a criticism of their routes however which by all accounts are first rate.----Cheers,JN

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 26, 2008

I led this really fun climb in one pitch with a 60 meter rope. We walked off to the west. This route is really good, yet you should bring a big rack if leading it in one pitch. I ran out of gear and also gas, at the top 20'. Save a yellow metolius for the top. You know when you use it. Ignore the chain belay and walk off. Once again, really good.

TDA

p.s. I agree with Jeff

By Jaren Watson
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One pitch with long runners worked well for us. 70 meters got us easily to the ledge with a simple downclimb on climber's left, though it did seem like a walk off the top would be the easiest escape. Very wet this spring!

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 12, 2013

Excellent climb! A single set of cams to 3.5 and nuts is sufficient if you do in 2 pitches. On 8/11/13 there was a screeching bat in the crack at the lower crux on P1 - my partner was freaked!

By Dapper Dan Rogers
From: Driggs, ID
Jun 1, 2014

Bat update, its still there, and just chilling. He will give you some encouragement through the bottom section for sure. Rope drag wasn't heinous for combining pitches (alpine draws), but maybe think twice about placing (right) before the "top of the Z" traverse, that was the culprit for me. Got about 4 feet off the belay deck on a single 70 rap, with solid ledge to off rap, just FYI.