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Z-Cracks is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is aptly named, as the crack forms some form of a Z. The climb is only about 50 feet in length. Jam up and slightly left, then up a steep right facing dihedral, then exit left in a bulging hand crack (the crux). After pulling the hand crack, set an anchor from large cams.
There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.
Standard rack - mainly hand sized pieces. Bigger stuff needed for an anchor (3 or 3.5 - 5 camalots).
There are some good rests before the physical fini...
Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
Good rest available for Heidi!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 4, 2005
The classic City Testpiece for 5.9!!! (yeah right). Don't let the size fool you...this one is a full on street fight, and a great one to test your mettle on, and it delivers in 50 feet. Get in there Marine!!!!!
Sep 11, 2006
Did it today; sew'd it up pretty well. It is all there and demands use of all climbing techniques known to man thus far (except offwidths) which is rad for something which is fairly short. I used three #1's and two #2's and built the anchor out of three #4's. Gear is bomber the whole way. Great climb!!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Great climb despite being short. Lots of interesting technique, but felt secure and fun. Stem, stem, stem!
Jun 5, 2007
This was my first gear lead ever. My friend said "you're ready to lead, I know this great 5.7, let's go". After shaking, scratching, and clawing my way to the top, he followed, got up to me and said "you'll do for a partner", and then walked off.
|By Justin F P|
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2007
This is probably the best 5.9 I have ever climbed. The upper half is definately the crux. Felt great to finally pull over onto the slab though.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Our team had been told this was a "puker" although none of us found this to be true. This little gem provides some good times and is not hard IMO.
|By Ted Farley|
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010
this climb was short but really cool. the 45 second approach is kinda grueling though.
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010
Full on experience in 50 feet, but not a good lead for a first time 5.9er.
A #4 camalot placed right before the overhanging hand crack is helpful.
Easy rap off the backside.
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Every time I thought it was getting difficult I'd find a good stance, a very sweet climb and one I'll bet is a lot less awkward for shorter folk.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2012
Great short route. People say it's "full on" but I'm not so sure how they climbed it. There's definitely a hard way and an easy way. Pick your poison.