Z-Crack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Greg Lowe |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on May 21, 2005 |
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The short pumpy crux of Z-cracks.
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Description Z-Cracks is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is aptly named, as the crack forms some form of a Z. The climb is only about 50 feet in length. Jam up and slightly left, then up a steep right facing dihedral, then exit left in a bulging hand crack (the crux). After pulling the hand crack, set an anchor from large cams.
There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.
Protection Standard rack - mainly hand sized pieces. Bigger stuff needed for an anchor (3 or 3.5 - 5 camalots).
There are some good rests before the physical fini...
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Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
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Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
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Good rest available for Heidi!
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 4, 2005
| The classic City Testpiece for 5.9!!! (yeah right). Don't let the size fool you...this one is a full on street fight, and a great one to test your mettle on, and it delivers in 50 feet. Get in there Marine!!!!! |
By Xover
Sep 11, 2006
| Did it today; sew'd it up pretty well. It is all there and demands use of all climbing techniques known to man thus far (except offwidths) which is rad for something which is fairly short. I used three #1's and two #2's and built the anchor out of three #4's. Gear is bomber the whole way. Great climb!! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.9
| Great climb despite being short. Lots of interesting technique, but felt secure and fun. Stem, stem, stem! |
By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007
| This was my first gear lead ever. My friend said "you're ready to lead, I know this great 5.7, let's go". After shaking, scratching, and clawing my way to the top, he followed, got up to me and said "you'll do for a partner", and then walked off. |
By Justin F P
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2007
| This is probably the best 5.9 I have ever climbed. The upper half is definately the crux. Felt great to finally pull over onto the slab though. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9
| Our team had been told this was a "puker" although none of us found this to be true. This little gem provides some good times and is not hard IMO.
Susan |
By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010
| this climb was short but really cool. the 45 second approach is kinda grueling though. |
By Wooderson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010
| Full on experience in 50 feet, but not a good lead for a first time 5.9er.
A #4 camalot placed right before the overhanging hand crack is helpful.
Easy rap off the backside. |
By Drederek
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9-
| Every time I thought it was getting difficult I'd find a good stance, a very sweet climb and one I'll bet is a lot less awkward for shorter folk. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2012
| Great short route. People say it's "full on" but I'm not so sure how they climbed it. There's definitely a hard way and an easy way. Pick your poison. |
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