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King on the Throne - East
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Jug World T 
Snakes and Ladders T 
Stan's Roof T 
Z-Crack T 

Z-Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe
Page Views: 1,393
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Z gear is somewhere . . .

Description 

Z-Cracks is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is aptly named, as the crack forms some form of a Z. The climb is only about 50 feet in length. Jam up and slightly left, then up a steep right facing dihedral, then exit left in a bulging hand crack (the crux). After pulling the hand crack, set an anchor from large cams.

There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.


Protection 

Standard rack - mainly hand sized pieces. Bigger stuff needed for an anchor (3 or 3.5 - 5 camalots).



Photos of Z-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Good rest available for Heidi!
Good rest available for Heidi!
There are some good rests before the physical finish...
There are some good rests before the physical fini...
The short pumpy crux of Z-cracks.
The short pumpy crux of Z-cracks.
Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
Z start of z route <br /> <br />May 2013
Z start of z route

May 2013
Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
Z crux
Z crux
Comments on Z-Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2005

what a route! testpiece for the grade!

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 4, 2005

The classic City Testpiece for 5.9!!! (yeah right). Don't let the size fool you...this one is a full on street fight, and a great one to test your mettle on, and it delivers in 50 feet. Get in there Marine!!!!!

By Xover
Sep 11, 2006

Did it today; sew'd it up pretty well. It is all there and demands use of all climbing techniques known to man thus far (except offwidths) which is rad for something which is fairly short. I used three #1's and two #2's and built the anchor out of three #4's. Gear is bomber the whole way. Great climb!!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb despite being short. Lots of interesting technique, but felt secure and fun. Stem, stem, stem!

By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007

This was my first gear lead ever. My friend said "you're ready to lead, I know this great 5.7, let's go". After shaking, scratching, and clawing my way to the top, he followed, got up to me and said "you'll do for a partner", and then walked off.

By Justin F P
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2007

This is probably the best 5.9 I have ever climbed. The upper half is definately the crux. Felt great to finally pull over onto the slab though.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Our team had been told this was a "puker" although none of us found this to be true. This little gem provides some good times and is not hard IMO.

Susan

By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010

this climb was short but really cool. the 45 second approach is kinda grueling though.

By Wooderson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010

Full on experience in 50 feet, but not a good lead for a first time 5.9er.
A #4 camalot placed right before the overhanging hand crack is helpful.
Easy rap off the backside.

By Drederek
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Every time I thought it was getting difficult I'd find a good stance, a very sweet climb and one I'll bet is a lot less awkward for shorter folk.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2012

Great short route. People say it's "full on" but I'm not so sure how they climbed it. There's definitely a hard way and an easy way. Pick your poison.