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King on the Throne - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jug World T 
Snakes and Ladders T 
Stan's Roof T 
Z-Crack T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe
Page Views: 1,639
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Z gear is somewhere . . .


Z-Cracks is on the Northeast side of King of the Throne. It is aptly named, as the crack forms some form of a Z. The climb is only about 50 feet in length. Jam up and slightly left, then up a steep right facing dihedral, then exit left in a bulging hand crack (the crux). After pulling the hand crack, set an anchor from large cams.

There is a set of fixed anchors which rap off the opposite side of the formation. Only one rope needed.


Standard rack - mainly hand sized pieces. Bigger stuff needed for an anchor (3 or 3.5 - 5 camalots).

Photos of Z-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The short pumpy crux of Z-cracks.
The short pumpy crux of Z-cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: There are some good rests before the physical fini...
There are some good rests before the physical fini...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeal for Z-Crack!
Zeal for Z-Crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
Brad cleaning Z-Cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Z start of z route  May 2013
Z start of z route May 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
Fritz nearing crux of "Z-Cracks."
Rock Climbing Photo: Z crux
Z crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Good rest available for Heidi!
Good rest available for Heidi!
Rock Climbing Photo: A late July candid portrait of the crack
A late July candid portrait of the crack

Comments on Z-Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2005

what a route! testpiece for the grade!
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 4, 2005

The classic City Testpiece for 5.9!!! (yeah right). Don't let the size fool you...this one is a full on street fight, and a great one to test your mettle on, and it delivers in 50 feet. Get in there Marine!!!!!
By Xover
Sep 11, 2006

Did it today; sew'd it up pretty well. It is all there and demands use of all climbing techniques known to man thus far (except offwidths) which is rad for something which is fairly short. I used three #1's and two #2's and built the anchor out of three #4's. Gear is bomber the whole way. Great climb!!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb despite being short. Lots of interesting technique, but felt secure and fun. Stem, stem, stem!
By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007

This was my first gear lead ever. My friend said "you're ready to lead, I know this great 5.7, let's go". After shaking, scratching, and clawing my way to the top, he followed, got up to me and said "you'll do for a partner", and then walked off.
By Justin F P
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2007

This is probably the best 5.9 I have ever climbed. The upper half is definately the crux. Felt great to finally pull over onto the slab though.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Our team had been told this was a "puker" although none of us found this to be true. This little gem provides some good times and is not hard IMO.

By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010

this climb was short but really cool. the 45 second approach is kinda grueling though.
By Wooderson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010

Full on experience in 50 feet, but not a good lead for a first time 5.9er.
A #4 camalot placed right before the overhanging hand crack is helpful.
Easy rap off the backside.
By Drederek
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Every time I thought it was getting difficult I'd find a good stance, a very sweet climb and one I'll bet is a lot less awkward for shorter folk.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2012

Great short route. People say it's "full on" but I'm not so sure how they climbed it. There's definitely a hard way and an easy way. Pick your poison.

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