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If only that damn 5.6 offwidth weren't the first pitch, this would be a 4-star route!! I jest, I jest,...or do I?
This route starts roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb the offwidth crack with a chockstone in it at about mid-height to a sloping ledge in a large, right-facing corner. Belay on gear in the corner. 40 feet
Pitch 2: 5.8 Layback and stem your way up the large offwidth crack. Strenuous at first, but it eases up quite a bit until you reach the next ledge at 35 feet. Belay on the ledge with gear (it is possible to combine the 1st and 2nd pitches).
Pitch 3: 5.9 Continue up the corner until you are nearly at the apex of the corner, then make a surprisingly difficult balance move right to the arete. Continue up to the top, and then off to the right to belay at a sizeable tree. 50 feet.
Rappel with two ropes to the ground.
This route starts in a wide, overhanging crack (that is surprisingly only 5.6) roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.
a good selection of gear is needed. Bring a #4 Camalot, and two #3s for peace of mind. Many parties sling the chockstone on the first pitch.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
the pro for this climb is very specific, a 5 or 6 bd cam would help you through the first insecure offwith pitch. Also the chock stone in the first OW pitch is moving so be careful. I did the p 1 variation (5.10) and the traverse left on the slab was dangerous and unprotected. Unless you're all about offwith's i wouldn't suggest this route, but hey maby its just not my bag of tea.