Yvonne  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 125 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  FA April 7, 1968--Rob Wood, Dave Thomas, Bob Rice FFA June 1976, Grant Calder, Todd Eastman Submitted By:  Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

If only that damn 5.6 offwidth weren't the first pitch, this would be a 4-star route!! I jest, I jest,...or do I?

This route starts roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb the offwidth crack with a chockstone in it at about mid-height to a sloping ledge in a large, right-facing corner. Belay on gear in the corner. 40 feet

Pitch 2: 5.8 Layback and stem your way up the large offwidth crack. Strenuous at first, but it eases up quite a bit until you reach the next ledge at 35 feet. Belay on the ledge with gear (it is possible to combine the 1st and 2nd pitches).

Pitch 3: 5.9 Continue up the corner until you are nearly at the apex of the corner, then make a surprisingly difficult balance move right to the arete. Continue up to the top, and then off to the right to belay at a sizeable tree. 50 feet.

Rappel with two ropes to the ground.

Location 

This route starts in a wide, overhanging crack (that is surprisingly only 5.6) roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.

Protection 

a good selection of gear is needed. Bring a #4 Camalot, and two #3s for peace of mind. Many parties sling the chockstone on the first pitch.