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Yushan North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Yushan North Face Gully 2 T 
Yushan North Face Gully 3 T 
Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully) T 
Yushan True North Face Route T 

Yushan North Face  


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Elevation: 12,966'
Location: 23.4716, 120.9587 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 724
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anmin Deng on Jan 6, 2011
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Yushan, the highest mountain in Taiwan, sees a lot...

Limited by Yushan National Park regulations MORE INFO >>>

Description 

THE alpine climbing area on Taiwan.
. 6 classic alpine routes and more variation routes.
. No repeated report yet rock climbing route on the true north face of the main summit.
. It is possible some of the routes in this area were FA in 1930's when Taiwan was under Japanese ruling, where all the Taiwan Alpine Club reports were destroyed during the transition of the Taiwanese governments after 228 holocaust in 1947. We only have some ancient brief records only about "have climbed some alpine routes on Yushan main summit or east summit this year".

Getting There 

To the base of north face of main summit:
. Traverse east about 100~300 meters from the north wind gap, or
. Hiking up stream 1~2 hours from Laonong stream camping site.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Yushan North Face
(Mar 2005) At the crux, in a vertical dihedral

Yushan North Face Gully 2 Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 M3-4 Steep Snow R  Asia : Taiwan : ... : Yushan North Face
Gully #2 is just on the right (west) side of the central ridge on the north face of Yushan main summit (the most obvious feature on the north face).After climbing up a couples of steep snow or mixed pitches (about 60-70 degrees, maybe a couple of steeper steps among pitches) just along the right side of central ridge wall base, the crux is about 10 meter high 70-80 degrees ice or mixed wall and a vertical dihedral in its top half (where the left side of the dihedral is an overhanging wall)...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Yushan North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on Yushan north face. (T=true north face, G...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Yushan north face. (T=true north face, G...

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