Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully)
AI2 Easy Snow
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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600', Grade III|
|Consensus: ||AI2 [details]|
|Submitted By: ||Anmin Deng on Jan 6, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Yushan north face. (T=true north face, G...
easy snow walk (40-50 degrees of snow slope) to the base of "cocktail rock", becoming a little steeper (50-60 degrees) or even rock exposed in bad seasons near the top end of the gully.
. "Sword in Snows": nearly finishing the gully #4 (aka "Sword Gully") before reaching the base of
"cocktail rock", slightly right turn and continue climbing up a little harder 50-60 degrees of snows along the east edge of the north face to the summit. Exposed to the sun early in the days, not recommended when snow conditions were not good.
. After reaching the base of "cocktail rock", climbers may wish to summit via the traditional route of east summit to main summit.
. Find the feature named "cocktail rock" on the east ridge near east side of main summit, the "cocktail rock" and the summit form the deepest gully on the north face of Yushan. The deepest gully is called "Sword Gully" and also "Yushan North Face Gully #4".
. Get down options: down climbing the route; climb to the summit and down climbing traditional (tourist) route.
snow protection, such as deadman.
simul solo is OK.
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