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Routes in Yushan North Face
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Yushan North Face Gully 2 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 M3-4 Steep Snow R |
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Yushan North Face Gully 3 T AI2-3 M2-3 Mod. Snow X |
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Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully) T AI2 Easy Snow |
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Yushan True North Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 666 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Anmin Deng on Jan 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Limited by Yushan National Park regulations
Details
The alpine climbs are inside the natural reservation areas declared by Yushan National Park. People who enter Yushan National Park reservation areas need to apply for Yushan National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily. Sadly, in some climbing seasons (especially some Febraries in recent years, the best times for alpine climbing), the park official would reject any application for entrance permission, even if you specifically apply for alpine climbing in this area.
Description
easy snow walk (40-50 degrees of snow slope) to the base of "cocktail rock", becoming a little steeper (50-60 degrees) or even rock exposed in bad seasons near the top end of the gully.
[Variations]
. "Sword in Snows": nearly finishing the gully #4 (aka "Sword Gully") before reaching the base of
"cocktail rock", slightly right turn and continue climbing up a little harder 50-60 degrees of snows along the east edge of the north face to the summit. Exposed to the sun early in the days, not recommended when snow conditions were not good.
. After reaching the base of "cocktail rock", climbers may wish to summit via the traditional route of east summit to main summit.
[Variations]
. "Sword in Snows": nearly finishing the gully #4 (aka "Sword Gully") before reaching the base of
"cocktail rock", slightly right turn and continue climbing up a little harder 50-60 degrees of snows along the east edge of the north face to the summit. Exposed to the sun early in the days, not recommended when snow conditions were not good.
. After reaching the base of "cocktail rock", climbers may wish to summit via the traditional route of east summit to main summit.
Location
. Find the feature named "cocktail rock" on the east ridge near east side of main summit, the "cocktail rock" and the summit form the deepest gully on the north face of Yushan. The deepest gully is called "Sword Gully" and also "Yushan North Face Gully #4".
. Get down options: down climbing the route; climb to the summit and down climbing traditional (tourist) route.
. Get down options: down climbing the route; climb to the summit and down climbing traditional (tourist) route.
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