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Yushan North Face Gully 2
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British AI3-4 M3-4 Steep Snow R
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Routes in Yushan North Face
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Yushan North Face Gully 2 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 M3-4 Steep Snow R |
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Yushan North Face Gully 3 T AI2-3 M2-3 Mod. Snow X |
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Yushan North Face Gully 4 (aka Sword Gully) T AI2 Easy Snow |
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Yushan True North Face Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,307 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Anmin Deng on Jan 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Limited by Yushan National Park regulations
Details
The alpine climbs are inside the natural reservation areas declared by Yushan National Park. People who enter Yushan National Park reservation areas need to apply for Yushan National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily. Sadly, in some climbing seasons (especially some Febraries in recent years, the best times for alpine climbing), the park official would reject any application for entrance permission, even if you specifically apply for alpine climbing in this area.
Description
Gully #2 is just on the right (west) side of the central ridge on the north face of Yushan main summit (the most obvious feature on the north face).
After climbing up a couples of steep snow or mixed pitches (about 60-70 degrees, maybe a couple of steeper steps among pitches) just along the right side of central ridge wall base, the crux is about 10 meter high 70-80 degrees ice or mixed wall and a vertical dihedral in its top half (where the left side of the dihedral is an overhanging wall). In good seasons the crux is packed with ice but it can be mixed terrain in not so good seasons.
At the top of the crux pitch the rock quality is very poor and very hard to protect. Pitons can be easily pulled out by hand here. You may want to directly tie your webbing onto the features of chicken head rocks and cross your fingers. weighing on pro or belay, let along leader or follower falling, is strongly recommended against.
Here turn to left and traverse for about 5 meters, behind the ridge and you will see an easier snow gully (about 60-70 degrees) directly goes to the west shoulder of the summit. In good seasons, running belay or even simul solo the final pitches to the summit is OK.
[Variations]
. Just finished the crux above the dihedral, not turn to left but turn to right, and go to the upper part of the route "Gully #1"
. This variation is also called "Ice Fall in Silver". Just before entering the crux, there would be a 10 meter high vertical ice fall on the left side of the crux only if in *VERY GOOD* seasons. In typical alpine climbing seasons, the ice fall would have formed only the top section such that it would be extremely hard to climb this ice fall if possible.
. Reports also found on Gully #2 by rock climbing in summers.
After climbing up a couples of steep snow or mixed pitches (about 60-70 degrees, maybe a couple of steeper steps among pitches) just along the right side of central ridge wall base, the crux is about 10 meter high 70-80 degrees ice or mixed wall and a vertical dihedral in its top half (where the left side of the dihedral is an overhanging wall). In good seasons the crux is packed with ice but it can be mixed terrain in not so good seasons.
At the top of the crux pitch the rock quality is very poor and very hard to protect. Pitons can be easily pulled out by hand here. You may want to directly tie your webbing onto the features of chicken head rocks and cross your fingers. weighing on pro or belay, let along leader or follower falling, is strongly recommended against.
Here turn to left and traverse for about 5 meters, behind the ridge and you will see an easier snow gully (about 60-70 degrees) directly goes to the west shoulder of the summit. In good seasons, running belay or even simul solo the final pitches to the summit is OK.
[Variations]
. Just finished the crux above the dihedral, not turn to left but turn to right, and go to the upper part of the route "Gully #1"
. This variation is also called "Ice Fall in Silver". Just before entering the crux, there would be a 10 meter high vertical ice fall on the left side of the crux only if in *VERY GOOD* seasons. In typical alpine climbing seasons, the ice fall would have formed only the top section such that it would be extremely hard to climb this ice fall if possible.
. Reports also found on Gully #2 by rock climbing in summers.
Location
. Find the central ridge on the north face and climb along its right (west) base.
. Finished the route and get down via traditional (tourist) route.
. Finished the route and get down via traditional (tourist) route.
Protection
. poor protections on snow sections (1st few pitches and the final pitch);
. ice pitons, pitons, middle sized cam on rock and mixed sections, rock quality is fair below the crux but very poor just above the crux (this is why the crux is here due to the geological forces);
. ice screws on ice sections in good seasons;
. no bolt or anchor
. ice pitons, pitons, middle sized cam on rock and mixed sections, rock quality is fair below the crux but very poor just above the crux (this is why the crux is here due to the geological forces);
. ice screws on ice sections in good seasons;
. no bolt or anchor
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