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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bee Bite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boogey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farewell to Fingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pro Choice T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Things That Go Hump in The Night T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 20,094 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
This route is a hidden gem comparable to Gelsa or Three Pines. There's a lot of climbing and adventure to be had here!
P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (60').
P2 - First go up and right ~10 feet, then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and eventually over a bulge to a wide ledge. On its right side is a large pine tree with rappel slings. This is a long pitch, ~120'.
P1 and P2 can be combined with good rope management.
P3 - Take the path of least resistance, using a long leftward ramp, leftwards to the base of the huge open book with several roof systems in it, and make a belay.
P4 - Go up the inside of the open book for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to underneath the highest overhang above. Move up and right to old pitons. Traverse 30-40 ft right horizontally under the roof (exposed but good holds, possibly some old pitons). After the roof ends, head up past bulges and slabs to the trees (100', 5.4). You'll want to extend your belay back to the cliff edge.
Descent: Walk off to the north (right) and look for a trail (light blue blazes); use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can scramble back down to the base and trail.
P1 - Starting up the slab, trend slightly left to reach a short left-facing corner. Follow that up to a ledge with a large pine tree with rappel slings (60').
P2 - First go up and right ~10 feet, then back left about 10 feet (tricky moves, perhaps more like Gunks 5.4) to reach a longer, steeper left-facing corner. Follow that to its top, up the face above and eventually over a bulge to a wide ledge. On its right side is a large pine tree with rappel slings. This is a long pitch, ~120'.
P1 and P2 can be combined with good rope management.
P3 - Take the path of least resistance, using a long leftward ramp, leftwards to the base of the huge open book with several roof systems in it, and make a belay.
P4 - Go up the inside of the open book for ~20 ft (some trickiness) to underneath the highest overhang above. Move up and right to old pitons. Traverse 30-40 ft right horizontally under the roof (exposed but good holds, possibly some old pitons). After the roof ends, head up past bulges and slabs to the trees (100', 5.4). You'll want to extend your belay back to the cliff edge.
Descent: Walk off to the north (right) and look for a trail (light blue blazes); use it to follow the clifftop to the north until, just before the road, you can scramble back down to the base and trail.
Location
Walk past the beginning section of the nears and the huge face of Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. Next, you'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock, with the right-leaning crack of Up Yours as an obvious marker. Keep going another 200'.
If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.
The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.
If you reach the land closure / trespassing signs, you've gone too far. Turn around and go back 70-85 feet.
The base of Yum Yum Yab Yum is notable by a slabbier streak of cleaner rock; a left-facing corner that starts about 20-25 feet up, and the pine tree on the belay ledge about 50 feet up.
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