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The North Walls
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Yukon Gold 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Maddaloni, Mateo Anotelli. FFA Pitch 2: Marc-Andre Leclerc
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Sep 9, 2010

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Description 

An exciting and technical climb just right of 'The Calling' on the North Walls. The crux pitch offer a wild technical challenge for those who wish to free it, or just pull on the pins and call it 5.11. The White Pillar of Splendour is also spectacular! Have fun!

Pitch 1: Start right at the chains above the finish of 'Alaska Highway' and climb cracks leading up into a corner. Layback and fingerlock to a station on a small ledge. 5.10d

Pitch 2: Step right off a ledge into a thin corner, clip a pin and make some techy moves in the shallow corner before good fingerlocks are reached. Step right into another corner, easy at first leading to more thin, technical corner work past several pins until the crack opens up again. Excellent climbing in the steepening corner leads a belay on a great ledge. 5.12d (5.11 A1 if you pull on the pins)

Pitch 3: Climb the right side of a scary detached flake (USE EXTREME CAUTION, DON'T PLACE GEAR BEHIND THE FLAKE) then up a thin leaning finger crack leading to a short traverse under a roof. Layback up onto the slab and belay on a small ledge. 5.11a. (It may be possible to climb a thin corner to the right as a harder, but safer variation to the perched flake)

Pitch 4: Climb up and right past a couple bolts, then up the face to another corner. Follow it right to the base of a spectacular white pillar. 5.11a

Pitch 5: The White Pillar of Splendour. Climb a corner above the belay, then transfer right into the left side of the spectacular pillar. Layback the ever widening pillar to belay on a small ledge on top. 5.11b.

Pitch 6: Climb the wide corner above the pillar into a short chimney section. Face climb on jugs past a couple bolts then up a thin hand crack leading to a roof. Traverse left under the roof, then climb a short handcrack to the top of the wall. 5.11a


Location 

Directly above the top of 'Alaska Highway' off of Astro Ledge. Hike up the North North gulley and traverse the ledge to the base of the route. Or climb Alaska Highway to get there.


Protection 

Double set of cams from blue TCU, to blue Camalot. One #4 and one #5 camalot for the Pillar. 12 draws.



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