Yukon Cornelius  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Jim Shimberg 1992 Submitted By:  lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Partial closure for falcon nesting 2013 MORE INFO >>> Though falcons are not nesting on this cliff, it's close proximity to Summit Crag where the birds are now nesting means parts of the cliff will be closed to climbing from roughly April through July. please read and follow signs in the area to know which climbs should be avoided. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Another long somewhat adventurous face climb. Much harder than the other routes on this face. I felt it was 5.12a but since the book calls it 5.11c I decided to meet it in the middle at 5.11d please vote on it's difficulty and i will make a change if need be. It looked like a few holds had broken off in key spots. It could also do with a good scrubbing or better yet some traffic.

Start on moderate moves, maybe 5.9ish to a good stance beneath the crux wall. About 25 feet of hard tricky sequency climbing is between you and your next rest. This is where it looked like things may have broken off. I did find a Sequence of crimps that got me through the first 20 feet of the crux but I did some crazy moves to make the last 5 feet and that is where i felt it was more "12a"ish to gain the ledge above. The next part is maybe 5.10a to another ledge and you think you are in the clear until you pull over what you think is the top and see you have about 15 feet of 5.10 slab to the anchors (cue the rope drag). Stay cool and try not to blow all your hard work as you slowly make your way to the anchor.

Location 

Next route left of Abbey Normal 5.10c (this one is easy to identify by its shorter length than the others) up the gully to the right...

Protection 

14 bolts to anchor with fixed biners...

You can just make it back down with a 60m rope but tie a knot in the end and be ready to have to downclimb 5 feet or so or maybe swing right to get to the ground...