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Yucca Flower Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aces and Eights T 
Great Escape T 
Rawhide T 
Squash Blossom T 
Western Justice (Frontier Justice) T,TR 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Yucca Flower Tower T 

Yucca Flower Tower 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.2015, -106.445 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,400
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 20, 2006
Forecast:
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John Duran on A Date with Death (5.13c), Sandia Mo...

Description 

Though not really a tower, this formation has a high concentration of of some of the best routes in the Sandias!


Getting There 

See approach information for Echo Canyon, which will lead you to the junction where you will either continue down into the canyon, or stay on the La Luz trail (if you are climbing on Yucca Flower Tower). From the trail junction, continue 10 minutes or about 0.3 miles on the main trail, paralleling the canyon. Here, the La Luz exits the trees and head northeast. Leave the trail, and head west down a climbers trail to the cliff-band. A large block is at the top of the Great Escape. Rapping from here will get you to the Yucca Flower Tower. It is also possible to hike down Echo Canyon to the base of the formation. This will get you to top of Great Escape (this is also where the GPS coordinates listed for this area will take you).

From the top of Great Escape, a single rope rap (60m rope, it's close, so tie the ends!) will get you to a large ledge at the base of the route. There is a nice set of anchors for this. From the ledge, scramble across an exposed "catwalk" to another large block. This is the summit of Yucca Flower Tower. Two, two rope raps will get you to the base of the formation. Make sure to head right instead of rappelling into the gully!


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Yucca Flower Tower:
Aces and Eights   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 180'   
Yucca Flower Tower   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
Rawhide   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   
Great Escape   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   
Western Justice (Frontier Justice)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 170'   
Squash Blossom   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Yucca Flower Tower

Featured Route For Yucca Flower Tower
Climber on the second pitch of <a href='/v/yucca-flower-tower/105862618'>Yucca Flower Tower</a>.

Yucca Flower Tower 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Yucca Flower Tower
After rapping to the base of the Yucca Flower Tower, head to the top of the pillar at your right (not the gully!). The route begins just at the top of this pillar. Pitch 1 (80'): Head up the obvious crack though a small roof, continuing through a corner system. Below another roof, clip a piton, and move through some awkward roof moves. Just up and left of the crux, find the bolted belay (5.10b).Pitch 2+3: Head straight up a fine looking finger crack (5.9+), after which you can either stop at a conven...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Yucca Flower Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The rap into Yucca Flower Tower during some questionable weather conditions.
The rap into Yucca Flower Tower during some questi...
Comments on Yucca Flower Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2007

Did the approach hiking down Echo Canyon yesterday. It is a hassle to get between Bush Shark Area base to Yucca Flower Tower base- 4th class in gnarly gully required. The rappel approach is better.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 3, 2010

You can get to the base with a 70, but the rap from the top of the tower takes all the rope--maybe add slings to the anchor. Or, rap the route and leave an anchor to pick up on the way up--just make sure to rap climbers' right from the top of the tower. This could be done with a single 60 meter rope.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 4, 2010

I usually just take a 70m on Yucca Flower Tower. The rap from the top of the tower is a stretcher for sure and we usually extend the bolted anchor with a full cordalette, so about 6 feet just to make sure there is "plenty" (ie: you are not reaching down to clip into the anchors before the rope comes out of your rappel device) of rope to reach the anchor at the top of the first pitch of Rawhide. The second rap is no issue.

By Bill M
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 27, 2012

What routes are at the top of the gully just to the south of Yucca. We rapped down there today off a bolted rap station at the top and saw a few bolts on the head wall. Looks to be solid .11 face with small discontinuous cracks.

By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 4, 2012

Bill
You were probably looking at Where Eagles Dare. It is the route immediately south or right of The Great Escape. It is indeed 5.11 climbing but very clean face and crack features. It is highly recommended. The only thing bad about it is that that is only one pitch, plenty long though for a single pitch at 165ft.

By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2012

Did the raps yesterday. Here is my take on it. To find the anchors for Great Escape, walk down, and slightly to right as you approach the cliff band, after which you need to scramble down a broken ramp extending into the canyon before you actually see the block on top of the route (we built two small cairns). If you head straight down to the cliff and the most obvious block, it is not the correct block.

When you rap from the top of the Yucca Flower Tower, rap with a 70m to the climber's left, NOT right. Although descending to the right will get you to anchors on the YFT route, a 70m rope will not reach (ended up prussiking and penduluming to get to what I believe are Rawhide anchors). If you head slightly climber's left to the Rawhide anchors, a 70m rope will have no issues, with very little extra rope, reaching the chains. Rap straight down from there, and scramble to climber's right for YFT.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 9, 2012

Shmuck,

I believe when Charles was saying to rap climbers right from the top of the tower, he was implying that you build an anchor with gear, then use that to make another rap to the top of P1 of the YFT route, then, from there to the ground. If you read his comment it says to build an anchor to retrieve when climbing back up.

You are correct, that the anchor that is at full rope length and slightly left is the Rawhide/Squash Blossom anchor. Also, all ropes are cut differently, some companies cut the ropes longer, I have actually come to the ends of the rope with a 70m and had to reach down to clip the Rawhide anchor which is why I mention leaving a cordelette on the anchor at the top to get a bit further just in case.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Mar 31, 2013

A Date With Death: Way far out of my league but still curious about its history.

Mick's 2003 guide indicated back then that A Date With Death still awaited a first free ascent. And then here's a video where - more recently - Cody Roth does a free ascent although it seems to imply not the first (if I recall correctly):



Anyone else have some history to add?

By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 1, 2013

This is the original write-up for the route -

  • A Date with Death (5.13c) N-A Wall, 550 yds N of Yucca Flower Tower. (FA: Duran, Marty Neibauer, 8/88)

The route (A Date with Death) was listed variously as both 5.13c and 5.13c/d sometimes even in the same publication.

Interestingly enough there's another route listed on the wall -

  • The Big Lie (5.13b TR) N-A Wall. Left of A Date with Death. (FA: Duran 8/88)

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Apr 26, 2013

John free climbed the pitch, but only on TR. This is according to reliable sources, and I cannot remember if John confirmed that, I have not seen him in many years. FFA Cody Roth 5.13d R, 2011. It's updated in the new 2013 guide, although I notice I have it listed as 5.13c in the FA index. Whatever, it's a hard, bold route on an awesome wall. In recent years, a couple of strong climbers tried, but were unable to free climb it. Congrats to Cody for getting it done.