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Lower Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before There Were Nine S 
Coldfusion T 
Crime Victim S 
Cryogenics T 
Engagement, The S 
Espresso Love S 
Girly Man S 
Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
Insurrection S 
Knuckle Head, The S 
Mad Arab T 
One for the Road S 
Pea Brain S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 
Stage Fright S 
Stand By Your Van T,S 
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 
Tarzan S 
Tommy's 13b S 
Twin Cracks T 
Under Pressure S 
Under Pressure - Extension S 
Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 
YQ T,TR 

YQ 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Scott Leonard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 8, 2002

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Description 

This is a new second pitch to the Cryogenic Corner, stepping right off the belay ledge along a ramp into the fairly friable, white pegmatite. This route can be led as one long pitch, clipping the bolted belay with a long sling for gear, or broken into two pitches. If you do it in one pitch, use a 70-meter rope to get back to the ground from the chains atop the wall.

Step right from the belay on an easy ramp which quickly peters out. A bomber nut and a so-so blue TCU get you around the bulge into a faint corner with a good layback horn. Pump in some gear at waist level, fish in a sideways RP behind the horn and do the crux. Your next piece is about fifteen feet up in a good crack up and right. Finish in a small dihedral and step left onto easy ground atop Cryogenics, finishing at the chain anchors.

This route was done as a headpoint with all but the RP placed on lead. It can easily be toproped off the Cryogenics anchors. Though the gear *seems* good, it is in pegmatite. Beware flaky footholds and the possibility of a giant penduluming screamer down into the Cryogenics corner should the gear fail.

Protection 

Standard hand-and-finger sized gear get you up the Cryogenic corner. Brings stoppers, RP's, Metolius grey, purple and blue (1, O and 00) and a green Camalot for the crux pitch, as well as a few extra TCU's and a hand-sized piece for the upper bit.


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