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The Glory Hole
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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: furrymurry on Sep 3, 2007
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Yours truly coming out the first roof of Yowsah, T...


A wonderful, steep route - and by far the easiest route at The Hole. Some gymnastic roof climbing with a few desperate clips. Everything from buckets to slopers. Enjoy!


Starts in the easy corner on the right side of the cave, following two bolts on the face. Comes straight out the horizontal roof, turns the roof at the third fixed draw, and up a vertical face section. From here you clip another fixed draw (pink webbing at the time of posting) and traverse left on the lip of the second tier. One more clip and straight up to the chains.


Take two draws for the first two clips (those located on the easy, vertical section). You may want to use a shoulder length sling on the second bolt for rope drag. The rest of the draws are fixed, albeit with webbing not chain.

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By Ben Sachs
Jun 15, 2009


Somebody I guess stole the 2nd bolt on the steep opening section of this route (the one in the pic by the guys waist). The rest of the bolts had awesome stainless chain, but this bolt was just a stud. Sketchy. We had a wrench but nothing else so we moved the hanger from the 1st bolt to the missing one. We felt it was safer that way (the 1st bolt is easily skipped, super easy climbing). Still just a hanger up there, no fixed draw. Someone local should go clean up this mess.

By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Jun 5, 2012

All of the draws are now fixed.