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> Pigpen Boulder
Youth Body Explosion (aka Lamprecht Problem)
V11 YDS 8A Font
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Toni Lamprecht |
Page Views: | 2,833 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Will S on Feb 5, 2012 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
There are plenty of big holds on this testpiece, one of Joshua Tree's hardest, but they can be difficult to use and well spaced at times. An exceptionally powerful and beta intensive line, bring all your core strength for this one!
Starting at the well chalked "tongue" where Pigpen starts, toss rightward straight into a small crimper and an eventual match at the ridiculous bowl underclings, then make a huge move to a sidepull with thumbcatch and apply various foot trickery with more hueco/bowl underclinging to eventually reach down and around to slopers above the lip. Surf the good lip slopers back left to finish on jugs.
Starts in your face and doesn't let up at all until you're out of the sidepull, at which point it relents. A true masterpiece that combines a brilliantly cryptic beta puzzle with raw, sustained body tension and accuracy.
One of the few harder lines here that is relatively skin-friendly. Errata: Toni's last name is incorrectly spelled in the original Miramontes guidebook (new guide is out anyday now!), I have used the correct spelling in this entry.
Starting at the well chalked "tongue" where Pigpen starts, toss rightward straight into a small crimper and an eventual match at the ridiculous bowl underclings, then make a huge move to a sidepull with thumbcatch and apply various foot trickery with more hueco/bowl underclinging to eventually reach down and around to slopers above the lip. Surf the good lip slopers back left to finish on jugs.
Starts in your face and doesn't let up at all until you're out of the sidepull, at which point it relents. A true masterpiece that combines a brilliantly cryptic beta puzzle with raw, sustained body tension and accuracy.
One of the few harder lines here that is relatively skin-friendly. Errata: Toni's last name is incorrectly spelled in the original Miramontes guidebook (new guide is out anyday now!), I have used the correct spelling in this entry.
Photos
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