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You're Scaring the Horses
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Observatory Wall (Upper Tier)
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Airbus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Diablo Standard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Goodnight Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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La Naris S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lichening The Serpent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Luna Lumina T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Solar Eclipse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Soul Sacrifice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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You're Scaring the Horses S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Rick Bradshaw, Josh Smith, & Rick Smith |
| Page Views: | 782 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Rick Bradshaw on Apr 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
You're Scaring the Horses is a second pitch Ergo and ascends the arete above and to the right of Ergo. Move the belay from the top of Ergo up two bolts to another set of anchors at the base of the arete to make the route 100ft, allowing the leader to be safely lowered using a 200ft rope. Classic arete climbing on beautiful rock with increasing exposure and difficulty culminating with ~20ft of sustained 11+/12- moves near the top. Rick Smith convinced a group that was testing their guns in the canyon below that they were scaring our horses on the mesa top when the route was being established. They said "sorry" and left.
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