Mountain Project Logo

your top rope solo device

Original Post
William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

so what is the best top rope soloing device. the mini traxion, wildcountry ropeman? looking for something i dont have to feed and will still be safe.

John D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 10

I use a gri-gri but you do have to pull out the slack on that. I think if I were to buy a dedicated device it'd be the mini-traxion, but that's mostly based off of what other people have said about it, and my own experience using a pro-traxion to haul. (very smooth and secure.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

For TR soloing, the mini-trax is the standard, and for good reason. It works very well. Many people choose to use 2 devices for safety/redundancy; some simply use 2 mini-traxions. Another system I have seen that works well is a Croll held up with a chest harness, backed up with a mini-trax. Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well.

There is also the new micro-traxion. I haven't heard any review yet, and am not even sure if it is out. This many replace the mini-trax as the best device. It sounds like it does basically the same thing, but is lighter and more efficient.

Some use the Gri-Gri, but it really isn't very well suited to this purpose. It works in a pinch, but is not ideal.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

I'm using a Basic Ascender backed up with a Grigri. It self-feeds. The Grigri needs slack pulled through when I'm at a stance. The Ascender was actually endorsed by Petzl to self-belay while the Mini-trax was not. That's why I chose it. The only complaint I have with the system is that the Basic Ascender won't allow you to traverse or down-climb well without disengaging it.

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
Doug S wrote:I'm using a Basic Ascender backed up with a Grigri. It self-feeds. The Grigri needs slack pulled through when I'm at a stance. The Ascender was actually endorsed by Petzl to self-belay while the Mini-trax was not.
Where are you getting that information?

This is what Petzl says about the Basic: "There is the possibility of accidental opening of the cam due to rubbing against the rock, or that the device will not jam due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig, etc.). Risk of improper attachment of the device."

And this is what Petzl says about the Mini Traxion: "The jamming function can remain deactivated without the climber's knowledge and visual verification isn't always easy. There is the possibility that the device will not jam due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig, etc.)."

Source

That page doesn't say not to use the Mini Traxion or to use the Basic. It does say not to use a Shunt or Tibloc.

I used to use a Gri Gri and now I use two Mini Traxions (one for backup). The Gri Gri was nice because you can lower really easily, but you have to manually take in the slack. The Mini Traxions are awesome because the rope feeds easily, but you can't lower really easily. I prefer using the Mini Traxions.
tytonic · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 75

I found the link below on the Petzl website recently. They recommend using any one of a number of devices on the primary line (Ascension, Micro Traxion, Mini Traxion, or Basic) and a Microcender on the secondary/backup line.

petzl.com/us/outdoor/produc…

Interestingly, Petzl specifically recommends against the frequently recommended use of 2 mini-traxions.

Edit: Looks like Tristan beat me to it.

Tristan Burnham · · La Crescenta, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,176

I use a mini traxion and a cinch. Then you can just pop off the mini traxion and rap down.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Cinch and a prussic.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

At the time of purchase (last fall roughly), Petzl listed self-belay as among the intended uses of the Basic Ascender. The Mini-trax was actually listed with a caution against self-belay. I don't have a frame of comparison as to which device actually works better for that purpose. I bought and use the Basic based solely on the manufacturer's specs at the time, which may have changed in the interim?? Dunno

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113

the Shunt baby!

Bon Temps · · SoCal · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

My device of choice is the Rock Exotica Soloist.
It's often overlooked as a top rope solo device, but it does a great job.

Bon Temps · · SoCal · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0
steitz wrote:the Shunt baby!
I've used a shunt before and found that it's simply another way of saying you have a serious death wish.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I have a TR setup in my house on a training wall with two rope strands from the top anchor and a CAMP lift ascender on each, Also bungee-d up to chest harness so it self tends. A ladder is built into the wall so I can easily disengage both ascenders with one hand while using the other to climb down the ladder. Very efficient for doing lots of laps

Reid Kalmus · · Breckenridge, Colorado · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

I just use a Mini-trax with a prussik, If want to get real serious you can put a couple over-hands on some bights to completely fail-safe it.. I've seen guy's use a shunt backed up only by over-hands on bights... Not that thats the safest way to do it...

Darby S · · Snoqualmie, wa · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

USHBA basic ascender with a prussik. It's totaly hands free, I don't need to mess with it or pull through slack while climbing. Cost was $80 I believe. I've used it for 3 years with no concern for my well being. I had fun climbing alone just yesterday.

One trick to point out, lots of people hang a water bottle to give a little downward pressure on the rope so it self feeds easier. I usualy drink my water and don't need it bashing into the cliff so I just tie and hang a small coil of rope a foot or two off the ground.

Lots of options out there, be safe and have fun!

Jon OBrien · · Nevada · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 917

Croll w sling or chest harness plus back up : ur choice of m tax, cinch, ushba. Plus anti cross load measures on ur locking biners

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Jon O'Brien wrote:Croll w sling or chest harness plus back up : ur choice of m tax, cinch, ushba. Plus anti cross load measures on ur locking biners
Wow. Lots of stuff.

Petzl Microsender. Locking biner. Done.
JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

+1 for getting the best advice / instruction here. Petzl lays out your options clearly.

petzl.com/us/outdoor/produc…

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Doug S wrote:At the time of purchase (last fall roughly), Petzl listed self-belay as among the intended uses of the Basic Ascender. The Mini-trax was actually listed with a caution against self-belay.
FWIW, the instructions that came with my minitrax years ago listed self belay as an approved use. The confusion about it currently being approved for such use comes from Petzl changing their mind recently about it. Unfortunately I misplaced my copy of the old instructions, so can't provide a pic.
William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135
Greg D wrote: Wow. Lots of stuff. Petzl Microsender. Locking biner. Done.
ya im looking for something simple . how does this feed?
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
William Rhyne wrote: ya im looking for something simple . how does this feed?
After 5 or 10 feet it tends itself. Tie a small weight to the rope and it will be totally hands free. No sharp teeth either. It was recommended by the manager at Bent Gate. Tie occassional back up knots of course.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "your top rope solo device"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started