Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
your top rope solo device
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Scott Bennett
May 10, 2012
photo by Forest Woodward

I've used a Grigri, and a GGII, for TR soloing, it works well for some things, and not others. It's great for working short sections of a hard climb, on which you'll often have to lower. It's bad for cruising long pitches, since it's a pain to feed.

A minitrax feeds super well, but of course you have to re-rig another device to lower.

On a similar note, I learned a new super-simple trick for backing up my mini-trax the other day:

Take a standard sized steel quicklink, and a short sling (I use a half-length one, you could also use 6mm cord or similar).

Put the minitrax on the rope as normal, girth-hitch the sling to your belay loop, and attach the QL to the sling and the rope. Then tie knots as you climb.

Even if you're whole mini-trax and biner explode, the QL will still catch on the nearest knot and save you from the big plunge.


I also like to use a steel biner on whichever device I'm using, it adds a bit of confidence.

Simple Backup System
Simple Backup System


FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 11, 2012
...

Mini Traxion and occasional knots as backup...


FLAG
By JoshCalvin
May 11, 2012

I use a shunt, fed through both ropes set up for rappel. Call me brave.

Tie the rope bag suspended off the deck to keep the rope taught and it self feeds, hands free. Works great on vertical. Not so much overhang, cause well, that's hard. And for slab there is that risk of falling on it and jamming it open.

Just find a partner. Or invent a robot.


FLAG
By wivanoff
May 11, 2012
High Exposure

William Rhyne wrote:
so what is the best top rope soloing device. the mini traxion, wildcountry ropeman? looking for something i dont have to feed and will still be safe.


I've been using a Gibbs Ascender for the last 20+ years. Tie it to my belay loop with some 7m cord. Three passes through the Ascender's eye and belay loop and then tie off the ends with an EDK. Keeps it nice and close to my harness and no cross-loading of any carabiners.

Sometimes clove hitch a carabiner and my approach shoes at the bottom to add some tension to the rope. But after 10 feet or so, that really isn't needed as the weight of the rope makes it feed nicely.

Probably have fallen on this literally hundreds of times. As always, YMMV.


FLAG
By Superclimber
May 11, 2012

I create two independent lines by putting a figure 8 in the middle of the top rope and clipping that to the top anchor with a couple lockers. Then use an Ushba ascender on one side of the rope and a Cinch on the other side. Tying the ends of the rope to a light pack makes them feed nicely. Works well, feeds well, mostly redundant, and it's easy to lower off without having to fuss with the gear. Makes running laps fast and easy.


FLAG
By Jim Titt
From Germany
May 11, 2012

Shunt


FLAG
By Aric Datesman
May 11, 2012

Bon Temps wrote:
Blew a hold on a less than vertical slab. The shunt was pinched between myself and the rock which caused the shunt to release. I fell maybe 10 feet then bounced off the rock enough to where the shunt caught again. Lost faith in it knowing that it would release that easily.


But what would have have happenned to Dave McLeod? I mean, that guy knows his stuff...

;-)

Regardless of what McLeod thinks, Petzl has been saying the Shunt has issues with self belay for years and is in a much, much better position to evaluate its suitability for such use.


FLAG
By Scott Bennett
May 11, 2012
photo by Forest Woodward

Rob K showed me that great idea, thanks for "inventing" it John!


FLAG
By Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
May 12, 2012
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks

I watched a guy last weekend top rope solo with nothing more than his ATC. Perhaps not the recommended setup....


FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 14, 2012
...

"Take a standard sized steel quicklink, and a short sling (I use a half-length one, you could also use 6mm cord or similar).

Put the minitrax on the rope as normal, girth-hitch the sling to your belay loop, and attach the QL to the sling and the rope"...



That's actually an interesting idea...


FLAG
By Kung Phu Panda
From South Lake Tahoe, California
May 14, 2012

I use a micro traction with a prussik for backup. My only recommendation would be to make sure you have worked out a system for escaping the traxion under load. This is in case you get stuck on a move and can't continue up the line. Just make sure you know how to rig a rappel while the traxion device is still under load.


FLAG
By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
May 15, 2012

you guys thank you all so much for the imput. i really dig the simplicity of the minitrax and the quicklink on a runner. cant wait to try this method.


FLAG
By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 15, 2012

Stopping to tie knots sort of defeats the purpose of a self-feeding device.

I use a minitrax on top held upright (to keep slack out of the system so the device doesn't have to re-orient from hanging down) with a loop of shock cord girthed through the clip-in hole and worn over the shoulder bandolier style to hold it up, and a protrax as a backup on bottom clipped to a 4" sewn sling girthed to the belay loop so it hangs below my junk. Would prefer two minis (or better yet, micros) but I own a mini and pro and it works well enough.

If running back to back laps, I rig two strands (i.e. knot in the middle of the rope at the anchor), climb on one, slap a grigri on the other at the top and rap. With a little practice it only takes about 15sec to be on the way back down.

Occasionally I'll just use a grigri if working a sequence where I'll want to lower a lot, but I almost hit the ground doing that a couple seasons ago when I hucked a dyno and the grigri got hung in clothing and didn't lockup. Went about 15' convinced I was going to deck since I was only 20' to start with.


FLAG
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
May 15, 2012
Belay

Will S wrote:
Stopping to tie knots sort of defeats the purpose of a self-feeding device.

Yeah, that's always been my main beef with a lot of the common setups. If I'm going to take the trouble to go out and rig a TR solo somewhere I want it to be a route that's really worth running laps on, which probably means that I'm trying to gain some amount of endurance by doing it repeatedly. Wiring a hard vertical .12 and running laps on it just seems... tedious if you're stopping every 15 ft. to tie knots.


FLAG
By livinontheledge
From davis, ca
May 15, 2012

mini trax on top with the shockcord bandolier
ushba ti basic below for a backup
belay device on/off to rap

curious how well the cinch feeds while climbing? seems like a nice way to simplify and speed up the system...if it feeds well


FLAG
By morkel
From Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2012

+1 for the Camp lift ascender. Feeds well. Have used it for three years with no problems. Used to use the Ushba, but lost it. They are similar.


FLAG
By slk
From Reno, NV
May 16, 2012
me

mini trax with a ropeman back up


FLAG
By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
May 16, 2012
Hanging out on Royal Arches

livinontheledge wrote:
mini trax on top with the shockcord bandolier ushba ti basic below for a backup belay device on/off to rap curious how well the cinch feeds while climbing? seems like a nice way to simplify and speed up the system...if it feeds well


If you tie a back pack or something to the bottom of the rope the cinch feeds just as good as a mini trax.


FLAG
By Nick Votto
May 16, 2012
Bolton, VT

I use the Wren Soloist 2-3 times a week and I can't imagine anything being better than this device....hands free as long as you weight your rope correctly. Only drawback is when you can't do the climb you need to prusik up...


FLAG
By Clayton Jensen
From Boulder, CO
May 5, 2013
Licking Da Butts at the Platte

Ive used a shunt before but only in window washing situations where we have two ropes. The shunt works great on a backup line but definitely should not be used as a sole device. The device will definitely not grab you if the climber freaks and grabs the device in a fall. Works well on as a backup but still does not feed extremely smooth without a little assistance.

What about the soloist? I've been looking for something for top rope soloing as well. I have actually just used clove hitches with back up knots to lead belay myself before. Can be a pain but think it's some good practice for rescue type situations and is very simple, just need some lockers.


FLAG
By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
May 5, 2013

Mike McLean wrote:
This should be qualified. Dave McLeod doesn't agree with you at all, and I sort of trust that guy. Cause he knows what he's doing. Massively.


Ever see the video of a shunt stripping a sheath easily?


FLAG
By Clayton Jensen
From Boulder, CO
May 5, 2013
Licking Da Butts at the Platte

I have not but I believe it. The shunt is always suppose to be kept as high on the rope as possible and never with slack. They can slip and I assume when they slip can shread the sheath


FLAG
By BHMBen
From The Deeper South
May 6, 2013
Post climb snack... <br /> <br />Photo is of Strappo Hughes, taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982 by Russ Walling.

Cross posting THIS thread.

If these two threads were stickied, it might eliminate this reoccuring question/answer session.


FLAG
By david doucette
May 6, 2013
Top of Intersection Rock, Joshua Tree NP.

I use two ropes. microtrax on one, microascender on the other as backup. both pieces of gear are quite small. weight the ropes and 100% hands free climbing. when i get to the top, tie off, unclip, rappel down. rinse and repeat. great way to run laps.

Thin Wall Jtree
Thin Wall Jtree


FLAG
By g.miller
May 7, 2013

Trango Cinch with a DMM Belay master biner. Rope feeds no problem, maybe put a back up knot half way up. Easy for running laps, as you can lower once you get to top.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3   Next>   Last>>