If you are rope soloing to work a route then I would use a gri with back-up knots so you can go up and down easily to work a certain move numerous times. If you are going up a route that is fairly easy and you are not going to work a certain move more than once, then an ascender (or two) of any choice is the best way to go.

I've used a Grigri, and a GGII, for TR soloing, it works well for some things, and not others. It's great for working short sections of a hard climb, on which you'll often have to lower. It's bad for cruising long pitches, since it's a pain to feed.

A minitrax feeds super well, but of course you have to re-rig another device to lower.

On a similar note, I learned a new super-simple trick for backing up my mini-trax the other day:

Take a standard sized steel quicklink, and a short sling (I use a half-length one, you could also use 6mm cord or similar).

Put the minitrax on the rope as normal, girth-hitch the sling to your belay loop, and attach the QL to the sling and the rope. Then tie knots as you climb.

Even if you're whole mini-trax and biner explode, the QL will still catch on the nearest knot and save you from the big plunge.


I also like to use a steel biner on whichever device I'm using, it adds a bit of confidence.

Simple Backup System Submitted By: Scott Bennett on May 11, 2012

Mini Traxion and occasional knots as backup...

I use a shunt, fed through both ropes set up for rappel. Call me brave.

Tie the rope bag suspended off the deck to keep the rope taught and it self feeds, hands free. Works great on vertical. Not so much overhang, cause well, that's hard. And for slab there is that risk of falling on it and jamming it open.

Just find a partner. Or invent a robot.

I create two independent lines by putting a figure 8 in the middle of the top rope and clipping that to the top anchor with a couple lockers. Then use an Ushba ascender on one side of the rope and a Cinch on the other side. Tying the ends of the rope to a light pack makes them feed nicely. Works well, feeds well, mostly redundant, and it's easy to lower off without having to fuss with the gear. Makes running laps fast and easy.

Shunt

Rob K showed me that great idea, thanks for "inventing" it John!

I watched a guy last weekend top rope solo with nothing more than his ATC. Perhaps not the recommended setup....

"Take a standard sized steel quicklink, and a short sling (I use a half-length one, you could also use 6mm cord or similar).

Put the minitrax on the rope as normal, girth-hitch the sling to your belay loop, and attach the QL to the sling and the rope"...


That's actually an interesting idea...

I use a micro traction with a prussik for backup. My only recommendation would be to make sure you have worked out a system for escaping the traxion under load. This is in case you get stuck on a move and can't continue up the line. Just make sure you know how to rig a rappel while the traxion device is still under load.

you guys thank you all so much for the imput. i really dig the simplicity of the minitrax and the quicklink on a runner. cant wait to try this method.

Stopping to tie knots sort of defeats the purpose of a self-feeding device.

I use a minitrax on top held upright (to keep slack out of the system so the device doesn't have to re-orient from hanging down) with a loop of shock cord girthed through the clip-in hole and worn over the shoulder bandolier style to hold it up, and a protrax as a backup on bottom clipped to a 4" sewn sling girthed to the belay loop so it hangs below my junk. Would prefer two minis (or better yet, micros) but I own a mini and pro and it works well enough.

If running back to back laps, I rig two strands (i.e. knot in the middle of the rope at the anchor), climb on one, slap a grigri on the other at the top and rap. With a little practice it only takes about 15sec to be on the way back down.

Occasionally I'll just use a grigri if working a sequence where I'll want to lower a lot, but I almost hit the ground doing that a couple seasons ago when I hucked a dyno and the grigri got hung in clothing and didn't lockup. Went about 15' convinced I was going to deck since I was only 20' to start with.

mini trax on top with the shockcord bandolier
ushba ti basic below for a backup
belay device on/off to rap

curious how well the cinch feeds while climbing? seems like a nice way to simplify and speed up the system...if it feeds well

+1 for the Camp lift ascender. Feeds well. Have used it for three years with no problems. Used to use the Ushba, but lost it. They are similar.

mini trax with a ropeman back up

I use the Wren Soloist 2-3 times a week and I can't imagine anything being better than this device....hands free as long as you weight your rope correctly. Only drawback is when you can't do the climb you need to prusik up...

Ive used a shunt before but only in window washing situations where we have two ropes. The shunt works great on a backup line but definitely should not be used as a sole device. The device will definitely not grab you if the climber freaks and grabs the device in a fall. Works well on as a backup but still does not feed extremely smooth without a little assistance.

What about the soloist? I've been looking for something for top rope soloing as well. I have actually just used clove hitches with back up knots to lead belay myself before. Can be a pain but think it's some good practice for rescue type situations and is very simple, just need some lockers.

I have not but I believe it. The shunt is always suppose to be kept as high on the rope as possible and never with slack. They can slip and I assume when they slip can shread the sheath

Cross posting THIS thread.

If these two threads were stickied, it might eliminate this reoccuring question/answer session.

I use two ropes. microtrax on one, microascender on the other as backup. both pieces of gear are quite small. weight the ropes and 100% hands free climbing. when i get to the top, tie off, unclip, rappel down. rinse and repeat. great way to run laps.

Thin Wall Jtree Submitted By: david doucette on May 6, 2013