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Scarface
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Your Mama T 

Your Mama 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,718
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Steph rappin off of Unnamed 10+ (#8 on page ...

Description 

Good crack climbing in a left-facing corner. Gets a little funky where the two cracks join before the anchors.


Location 

This is the left-facing corner with twin cracks at the bottom to the left of Scarface and Where's Carruthers?.


Protection 

Mostly green Camalots to blue Camalots with heavy on the red and gold Camalots. Also possible to use a couple smaller pieces or a bigger piece where the cracks join up.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2011
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

Varied climbing with different widths and movement. Twin crack start. I took the right wide hands crack, the others tool the left corner. Can stem both cracks up to the chimney box. It's not over there though!

CL

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008

If I remember correctly, the plaque at the bottom calls this climb "Your Mother 5.10+"

By Matt Weiseth
Oct 30, 2008

The Name of this route is I think based on an etched rock at the base: Your Mama. Stellar Climb

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

Fantastic climb that is of a much different character than most IC cracks. Bring a couple extra runners.

You know I did Your Mama!

By Phill T
Mar 30, 2009

I think this was labeled 'wheres cruthers' in my book. Didnt see a plaque. Twin crack start with ring locks on the left and hands/fists on the right up to an all day rest pod. Varied climbing past that through a 'roofish type thing' to another no hands rest if you need it. some more fun moves gets you to the top! super awesome!

By Greg Barnes
Apr 22, 2009

Fun route, not just a walk-the-cams splitter. My friends and I replaced one of the bolts and replaced webbing with chains in Sept. '07. There was a previously chopped anchor about 30' up on the right wall, super lame to have such a low anchor which avoids the interesting climbing. I placed a large stopper or two on this route, there are some funky double-cracks-meeting-can't-place-cams spots.

By ChugachMan
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

To PhilT, "Where's Caruthers" is between this and scarface...

There's many options for protection on this route... if taking the left crack at the base, 0.75 camalots wil get you to the first pod. If taking the right side, start with a 0.75 or 1, then some 2's and 3's depending on how much gear you want. For the rest of the route, toss in some big gear here and there, or just use red camalots in the crack that runs up the back of the route (with some runners)... great route, with fun moves and variation.

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Mar 23, 2010

she is rapping off of "Desert Sunset"

By D-Storm
Oct 25, 2010

For the sake of keeping the record straight, Jay, I have to assert that the correct route is shown in the photo. I climbed it yesterday and probably spent more time there than you or Mary would for your warm-up. It was good to see you two and the baby this weekend!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2011

The photo is correct for this route. Very fun, varied un-indian-creek climbing. Bring plenty of number 1s and 2s for deep in the crack, and the right starting crack. A few 3s are also useful if starting on the right.

By J. Hickok
Dec 6, 2011

I believe the route name "Your Mama," was added at a later date. It seems this route was mistakenly named with a plaque as Desert Sunset in the past, and it is called Unnamed in the Bloom book. Perhaps the name Your Mama was added by somebody who felt the route needed a name at the bottom?

Does anybody know for sure? Somebody who actually climbed at Indian Creek before the book came out?

By slim
Administrator
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

joel, i've noticed this trend occuring lately. unnamed routes are suddenly sprouting names and plaques. not really sure what to make of it. part of me dislikes it, but part of me finds it handy to have a name to refer to the route by when describing it to somebody.

hope all is well.