So a few of the route descriptions for some alpine climbs I'm looking at say to bring a "light rack" or a "skeleton rack". What does this mean to you? I almost always climb with a set of nuts, tricams .25-2 and .3-3 c4s. What would you pare down to make this a "skeleton rack"?

mix small & large nuts maybe 6 total, tri-cams/hexes, yer-gonna-die aliens, singles of cams to 2" -- unless something sticks out as big needed. Possibly doubling up in the just off-fingers sizes; or gutting your cams to the 2-4 essential pieces; route dependent I guess.

You are basically looking to move fast & light and be efficient with anchors and climbing. Don't discount the possibility of natural chocks/boulders and the climbing rope as the anchor rig.

Possibly pins may be thought of; where I already have my tools and carry 6 or so, otherwise I won't think of pins.

Those alpine dyneema/spectra sling setups are way light.

My non personal gear light rack is:

WC super light rocks
Pink tricam
Blue and Yellow TCU
BD .5 to 1 (or 2)
~5 shoulder length draws
2 double length draws

This assumes short pitches or big runouts on easy terrain. Almost always a leader does not fall situation or simul climbing. I will add a big hex or ice screws or pitons as needed. If I think I will need more pieces I add my BD nuts.

some nuts, 2 link cams, 7.7 mil ice line (doubled over)

Matthes Crest Rack Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 5, 2010

snake dike topout Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 5, 2010

It also depends a lot on the type of rock. The cracks in RMNP and the Indian peaks tend to be very featured and take passive gear really well. I've done a fair amount of climbing there with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes. Obviously, this plan wouldn't work so well in Indian Creek.

This post reminded of a Patagonia Video on YouTube. Check out Steve House's "light" rack for Nanga Parbat (starting around 3:40). Cool video otherwise.

www.youtube.com/user/patagoniavideo#p/u/185/oIkmYiwbZWg

Boy that’s a pretty open question. Depends on the route, beta on the route, ability/probability to bail, grade, and your comfort at that grade. Sounds like you are talking about strictly rock. In that case climbing at a grade I am comfortable here’s what I would bring:
pins
mid size nuts
tri-cams for the upper size of nuts and lower size of cams
couple of link cams
maybe a BD #3 if called for

small to medium nuts singles
small aliens to gold camelot---singles
no tricams

godspeed

skimp on big gear, and carabiners. if you bring alpine slings only bring 1 biner on each. losing 8-10 biners will lighten up your rack big time!