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Jul 5, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron
So a few of the route descriptions for some alpine climbs I'm looking at say to bring a "light rack" or a "skeleton rack". What does this mean to you? I almost always climb with a set of nuts, tricams .25-2 and .3-3 c4s. What would you pare down to make this a "skeleton rack"? Derek W
Joined Jun 27, 2008
38 points
Jul 5, 2010
mix small & large nuts maybe 6 total, tri-cams/hexes, yer-gonna-die aliens, singles of cams to 2" -- unless something sticks out as big needed. Possibly doubling up in the just off-fingers sizes; or gutting your cams to the 2-4 essential pieces; route dependent I guess.

You are basically looking to move fast & light and be efficient with anchors and climbing. Don't discount the possibility of natural chocks/boulders and the climbing rope as the anchor rig.

Possibly pins may be thought of; where I already have my tools and carry 6 or so, otherwise I won't think of pins.

Those alpine dyneema/spectra sling setups are way light.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,504 points
Jul 5, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
My non personal gear light rack is:

WC super light rocks
Pink tricam
Blue and Yellow TCU
BD .5 to 1 (or 2)
~5 shoulder length draws
2 double length draws

This assumes short pitches or big runouts on easy terrain. Almost always a leader does not fall situation or simul climbing. I will add a big hex or ice screws or pitons as needed. If I think I will need more pieces I add my BD nuts.
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jul 5, 2010
What was left of the rack when I topped out on the...
some nuts, 2 link cams, 7.7 mil ice line (doubled over)
Matthes Crest Rack
Matthes Crest Rack

snake dike topout
snake dike topout
Jordan Ramey
From Calgary, Alberta
Joined Jun 15, 2006
4,395 points
Jul 5, 2010
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
It also depends a lot on the type of rock. The cracks in RMNP and the Indian peaks tend to be very featured and take passive gear really well. I've done a fair amount of climbing there with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes. Obviously, this plan wouldn't work so well in Indian Creek. Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,635 points
Jul 5, 2010
This post reminded of a Patagonia Video on YouTube. Check out Steve House's "light" rack for Nanga Parbat (starting around 3:40). Cool video otherwise.

Cory Sipher
From Roseburg, OR
Joined Jun 11, 2006
10 points
Feb 7, 2011
Boy thatís a pretty open question. Depends on the route, beta on the route, ability/probability to bail, grade, and your comfort at that grade. Sounds like you are talking about strictly rock. In that case climbing at a grade I am comfortable hereís what I would bring:
mid size nuts
tri-cams for the upper size of nuts and lower size of cams
couple of link cams
maybe a BD #3 if called for
From Your moms house last night
Joined Sep 6, 2010
48 points
Feb 7, 2011
sierra eastside
small to medium nuts singles
small aliens to gold camelot---singles
no tricams

Joined Apr 13, 2009
77 points
Feb 24, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
skimp on big gear, and carabiners. if you bring alpine slings only bring 1 biner on each. losing 8-10 biners will lighten up your rack big time! Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
612 points

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