Your light rack?
|
So a few of the route descriptions for some alpine climbs I'm looking at say to bring a "light rack" or a "skeleton rack". What does this mean to you? I almost always climb with a set of nuts, tricams .25-2 and .3-3 c4s. What would you pare down to make this a "skeleton rack"? |
|
mix small & large nuts maybe 6 total, tri-cams/hexes, yer-gonna-die aliens, singles of cams to 2" -- unless something sticks out as big needed. Possibly doubling up in the just off-fingers sizes; or gutting your cams to the 2-4 essential pieces; route dependent I guess. |
|
My non personal gear light rack is: |
|
some nuts, 2 link cams, 7.7 mil ice line (doubled over) |
|
It also depends a lot on the type of rock. The cracks in RMNP and the Indian peaks tend to be very featured and take passive gear really well. I've done a fair amount of climbing there with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes. Obviously, this plan wouldn't work so well in Indian Creek. |
|
This post reminded of a Patagonia Video on YouTube. Check out Steve House's "light" rack for Nanga Parbat (starting around 3:40). Cool video otherwise. |
|
Boy thats a pretty open question. Depends on the route, beta on the route, ability/probability to bail, grade, and your comfort at that grade. Sounds like you are talking about strictly rock. In that case climbing at a grade I am comfortable heres what I would bring: |
|
small to medium nuts singles |
|
skimp on big gear, and carabiners. if you bring alpine slings only bring 1 biner on each. losing 8-10 biners will lighten up your rack big time! |