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Lunch Rock
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Beautiful 
Can't touch this 
Clear Light 
Lunch Rock Left Crack 
Lunch Rock Right Crack 
Lunch Rock Slab 
Mission Control 
Orange Walk 
Ramp Arete 
Ramp, The 
Skyline Arete 
Skyline Face 
Skyline Pinnacle 
Stairs, The 
Trauma, The 
True Skyline Arete 
Your Lead 
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Your Lead 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Cook, 1976
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: mschlocker on Sep 10, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Much hilarity to be had on Your Lead, circa 1977

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Description 

Leave the Trauma up and left up past two bolts. This climb is basically kick back climbing with a hard 5.9 boulder problem thrown in the mix. The trick is traversing left past a blank section after the first bolt is clipped. This climb gets much easier once you learn the moves.

One star since the short and hard crux is out of bed with the easy clmbing on the rest of the route and the gear anchor and rappel is kind of a hassle. This does open up another route in a very popular area however.


Location 

On the extreme left side of the Lunch Rock area. Start up as for the Trauma and head up and left on bolts at a big block.


Protection 

2 bolts. New Stainless as of 8/2007. Can run it to the first bolt or protect with a Yellow? alien. Gear anchor, small to 1" or can be set higher up with larger gear. Walk left 100' or so (exposed) and rappel down Empathy.



Photos of Your Lead Slideshow Add Photo
En route employing some tricks of the trade.
En route employing some tricks of the trade.
Old Bolts.  The lower one was shadowed from the rain.  The upper hanger was cracked long before I got there, evidenced by the shiny and rusty cracks in the upper hanger.  1/4" Rawl Drives are surprisingly strong in our diamond hard rock.
Old Bolts. The lower one was shadowed from the ra...
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