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> Bugaboos
> Howser Towers
> N Howser Tower
Young Warrior
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in North Howser Tower
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All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R |
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Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eye of Providence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 PG13 |
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Spicy Red Beans and Rice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), Grade VI |
| FA: | Dave Russel, Chris Harkness |
| Page Views: | 3,996 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | chris harkness on Jul 11, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
After failing on an attempt to climb an undone column system on the right side of N. Howser, we settled for what appeared to be an unclimbed line to the right of "Warrior" (Burton, Sutton). After talking to Hugh Burton and Marc Piche, we are still unsure how much of this route is shared with "Warrior". Nonetheless, this climb was nothing short of an epic. Check out the following link for the full story:
alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/news…
alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/news…
Location
W. face of N. Howser tower. We approached via the East Creek Basin rappels. I would not recommend it. It was a lot of work. Perhaps skirting around the north side of the massif, though longer, would be less arduous. We descended the West face, though I believe most people descend the East face.
Protection
Standard trad/aid rack. We put in a rappel route down the entire West face which follows this route. (Warning: some raps are more than 60 meters) First set of anchors can be found where the ridge scrambling begins, near the top out of "All along the Watchtower" and the other routes on the left side of the wall.
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