Young Lust 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Sheryl following up Young Lust. The many pro's pla...
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Description This route and it's neighbor (Smithereens) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.
Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.
A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.
Protection pro to 1.5" (wires work especially well), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
Sheryl entering the crux of Young Lust (5.8+).
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Ron Britton
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Mike Kurilich
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Dan D leading Young Lust (5.8+) in the Rock Garden...
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Jonny on Young Lust.
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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.9
| This climb is straightforward to protect. It has very fun jamming. The Vogel guide rates is 5.9; I agree based on the slightly steep crux section. |
By Randy
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.8
| Guide rates it 5.8 and that seems about right. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009
| Wasn't aware of any scarce protection on this route, and trust me, being the chicken I am, I'd know. |
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.9-
| Great fun! Some say 5.8, some say 5.9. I say GOOD TIMES! Crux may put it into the 5.9 range. Beta: don't get suckered into pluggin' gear high and sacrifice great finger locks. Bring a #3 - there's a sweet spot. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| I think this is my favorite 5.9 route in the entire park. I have probably climbed in 10 or more times and I live 12 hours drive away. Every route on this wall is fantastic but this is the best. |
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
| 5.8. Great pro, great fun! |
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