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The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
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Young Guns 

Young Guns 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D.Mabe, R.Brown, and K.Kent
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 27, 2013
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FA of Young Guns, May 2013

Description 

This short route has excellent climbing at a surprisingly moderate grade, featuring great pro, secure jams, wild coconino face features, and foot holds; all in under 80 feet. Though short, it is nearly a four star classic for the area and grade.

A steep start leads to a finger crack and stem-box. Work up through a flare and right into a right-facing corner and continue on amazing finger locks and varied jams to a two bolt rap anchor on a ledge.


Location 

Bushwack up the hill to the right of the base of White Wedding. You can see the upper dihedral above the trees from the creek bed.


Protection 

cams C4: #0.3 to #3 with an extra of #0.4-#1 should be plenty. Medium and large stoppers also work well.



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Young Guns of Pumphouse
BETA PHOTO: Young Guns of Pumphouse
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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 1, 2013

Love this route, just wish it was longer. Great protection throughout. Good rock and solid jams make this a classic.