|The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
This short route has excellent climbing at a surprisingly moderate grade, featuring great pro, secure jams, wild coconino face features, and foot holds; all in under 80 feet. Though short, it is nearly a four star classic for the area and grade.
A steep start leads to a finger crack and stem-box. Work up through a flare and right into a right-facing corner and continue on amazing finger locks and varied jams to a two bolt rap anchor on a ledge.
Bushwack up the hill to the right of the base of White Wedding. You can see the upper dihedral above the trees from the creek bed.
cams C4: #0.3 to #3 with an extra of #0.4-#1 should be plenty. Medium and large stoppers also work well.
BETA PHOTO: Young Guns of Pumphouse
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 1, 2013
Love this route, just wish it was longer. Great protection throughout. Good rock and solid jams make this a classic.