Young, Blonde, and Easy  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Fixed Hardware:  5 Lead Pins, 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details] Season:  Spring thru Fall Submitted By:  Dougald MacDonald on Aug 1, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A terrific mixed route left of the Shield, just about where the trail arrives at Lower Peanuts. Spot a couple of fixed pins along a short, very thin crack about 45 feet up. This is the start of the hard climbing. Make your way to the first knifeblade (not hard and reasonably protected), back up the KB if possible, and head up the thin flake crack, placing reasonably good small RPs and tiny wires. At the top of the crack, you can clip a better pin and soon a bolt. A desperate mantel gains a sloping stance. Puzzle your way up a shallow corner past another bolt and pin to reach the anchor. Lower/rappel.

Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.

Location 

Starts just left of where the trail meets Lower Peanuts Wall.

Protection 

QDs, long slings to reduce rope drag at the start, RPs and tiny wired nuts, a small selection of cams for the start and finish. A purple/black Alien or equivalent small piece is nice for the final hard move below the anchor.