|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Fixed Hardware:||5 Lead Pins, 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]|
|Season:||Spring through Fall|
|Submitted By:||Dougald MacDonald on Aug 1, 2010|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Young, Blonde, and Easy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Aug 11, 2013
This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed.
The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin (mental crux). At this point, you have pretty good feet and are able to plug in 2 good RPs from the same stance. The climbing is PG from here on! Clip a few pins, place some RPs, get stoked when you reach two new, fatty bolts. At the top, clip one more pin, place a nut and/or black Alien, and you're finished.
A heady route for sure, but one I highly recommend if you like Eldo weirdness and are good at placing small gear. The actual climbing felt only 10d/11a-ish to me. Also, thanks to the person that put those new bolts in!
By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 26, 2013
The position of the first bolt is poor. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left.
Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge.