Young, Blonde, and Easy is a terrific mixed route left of The Shield, just about where the trail arrives at Lower Peanuts. Spot a couple of fixed pins along a short, very thin crack about 45 feet up. This is the start of the hard climbing. Make your way to the first knifeblade (not hard and reasonably protected), back up the KB if possible, and head up the thin flake crack, placing reasonably good small RPs and tiny wires. At the top of the crack, you can clip a better pin and soon a bolt. A desperate mantel gains a sloping stance. Puzzle your way up a shallow corner past another bolt and pin to reach the anchor. Lower/rappel.
Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.
Start just left of where the trail meets Lower Peanuts Wall.
QDs, long slings to reduce rope drag at the start, RPs and tiny wired nuts, a small selection of cams for the start and finish. A purple/black Alien or equivalent small piece is nice for the final hard move below the anchor.
|Comments on Young, Blonde, and Easy
|By L Stern|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 11, 2013
This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed.
The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin (mental crux). At this point, you have pretty good feet and are able to plug in 2 good RPs from the same stance. The climbing is PG from here on! Clip a few pins, place some RPs, get stoked when you reach two new, fatty bolts. At the top, clip one more pin, place a nut and/or black Alien, and you're finished.
A heady route for sure, but one I highly recommend if you like Eldo weirdness and are good at placing small gear. The actual climbing felt only 10d/11a-ish to me. Also, thanks to the person that put those new bolts in!
|By Joseph P. Crotty|
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 26, 2013
The position of the first bolt is flat out terrible. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left.
Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge.