Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 5,509 total · 26/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.

Location Suggest change

Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof

Protection Suggest change

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.

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