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 ADVANCED
Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 
Blast From The Past S 
Decaf S 
Disconnected S 
Espresso S 
Holey Moley S 
Raven, The S 
Red Devil S 
Should be Called Do What? S 
Tough Choices S 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Lounge S 
Will Power S 
You Don't Know Jack S 

You Don't Know Jack 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jack on the "You Don't Know Jack".

Description 

Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.


Location 

Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof


Protection 

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.



Photos of You Don't Know Jack Slideshow Add Photo
"You Don't Know Jack". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "You Don't Know Jack".
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on You Don't Know Jack Add Comment
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By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 21, 2006

Actually, I do know Jack.

Jack SUCKS j/k

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 21, 2010

Fun route, continuously engaging, and certainly better than Red Devil, which, in my opinion, wimps out after the crux. The top brings a balancy bang after the pumpy bottom sections.

By the way, thanks are in order to Jack for putting up with my pestering last Sunday (March 21st) regarding route beta. If you see Jack, thank him for, well, being Jack.

ANDY