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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistable S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

You Betchy It's Sketchy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Ray Ringle, '92
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Sep 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo

Description 

Starts with a short lieback seam, ends with easier face climbing. In the between is lots of slab. Very thin and fairly technical, makes you appreciate sticky rubber.

Location 

Between "Silmarillion" and "Middle Earth" near the right end of the cliff. Starts up right-facing crack. The anchors on this climb are the intermediate rap anchors to get off "Silmarillion", "Middle Earth", and "Pull Me Up".

Protection 

Bolts & bolt anchors


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By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 10, 2007

The crux slab on this climb is an eye opener.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 10, 2007

I somehow managed to onsight this thing, maybe because the alternative was decking..I guess with a really skilled belayer you could maybe stay off the ground if you blew it near the (2nd or 3rd?)bolt..Can't quite remember which clip gives the route its name..

I don't think I'll ever try to lead it again hehe
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 15, 2007

Oh ya, I forgot too mention I didn't lead this route! I'll have to get "Christian" to lead it again so I can TR it again.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 15, 2007

Hell no Andy, I'll do "Middle Earth" and rap down to the "Sketchy" Anchors instead :-) We should get out there before it gets too cold.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After 12 years of not visiting the area I ventured down to ME this weekend. This was the first route we did. I chose not to lead it and just tagged along on the TR. No falls, but believe me, it could have happened anytime. Those opening moves can be slick and an eye opener right out of bed.

You betcha it's sketchy!!