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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Bobbin' for Hobbits 
Breeze, The 
Bump, The 
Delirious 
Earth Angel 
Elfin Warrior 
Fireball 
Grand Opening 
Hobbitual Offender 
Infectious 
Irresistable 
Just a Fantasy 
Middle Earth 
Planet Eater, The 
Premonition 
Pull Me Up 
Red Hot 
S'Blended 
Silmarillion 
War Of The Worlds 
You Betchy It's Sketchy 

You Betchy It's Sketchy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Ray Ringle, '92
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Sep 10, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo

Description 

Starts with a short lieback seam, ends with easier face climbing. In the between is lots of slab. Very thin and fairly technical, makes you appreciate sticky rubber.


Location 

Between "Silmarillion" and "Middle Earth" near the right end of the cliff. Starts up right-facing crack. The anchors on this climb are the intermediate rap anchors to get off "Silmarillion", "Middle Earth", and "Pull Me Up".


Protection 

Bolts & bolt anchors



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By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 10, 2007

The crux slab on this climb is an eye opener.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 10, 2007

I somehow managed to onsight this thing, maybe because the alternative was decking..I guess with a really skilled belayer you could maybe stay off the ground if you blew it near the (2nd or 3rd?)bolt..Can't quite remember which clip gives the route its name..

I don't think I'll ever try to lead it again hehe

By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 15, 2007

Oh ya, I forgot too mention I didn't lead this route! I'll have to get "Christian" to lead it again so I can TR it again.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 15, 2007

Hell no Andy, I'll do "Middle Earth" and rap down to the "Sketchy" Anchors instead :-) We should get out there before it gets too cold.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

After 12 years of not visiting the area I ventured down to ME this weekend. This was the first route we did. I chose not to lead it and just tagged along on the TR. No falls, but believe me, it could have happened anytime. Those opening moves can be slick and an eye opener right out of bed.

You betcha it's sketchy!!