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You Bet Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Gallagher
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Dave E on Feb 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start in the dihedral left of the arete. Bolts 1 and 2 are just right of the arete. R rating unless stick clipping Bolt 2.

Protection 

4 bolts.


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By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 21, 2014

I don't know what to say about this route other than today was the first time I've ever not been able to do a single move on a route. Maybe I'm having withdrawals from my recent trip to HCR and the sandstone or maybe I had an off day on route finding but I was thrown off this route time and time again today. I had to rap off the 5th bolt and retreat in defeat.

For the grade I can honestly say I've been humbled. I would love to see someone, anyone, climb this route and make it look like an 11c.
By Mark Pell
2 days ago

Clint, sorry you got whupped on this route but don't feel bad, it's not easy. Or very good either, as some people seem to think. Whatever, I liked it or I wouldn't have torn down 100 pounds of deeply-rooted poison ivy and brushed out a 5-gal. bucket of dirt to put it up twenty years ago. Kevin Gallagher may have put in the ancient inspection bolt above and left of the present belay anchor but then he abandoned this line or lost interest. I love dirty work and am not allergic to poison ivy so after waiting a very respectful length of time for him to do something with this climb I eventually stepped in and took it over to make a sport climb out of it. This is not Kevin's route and its real name is not 'You Bet Arete' but we'll just go with that one since that's how it's been published so many times, and nobody really cares what I named it anyway. Email me here on MP if you want to know. Anyway Clint, this has never been a popular route but it has a following among masochistic weirdos such as are typical in Austin, and other people who like roped bouldering. The 11/11+ grade depends on how wet and/or humid it is and whether you start directly or move in from the left to reach bolt 1. Next trick is how quickly you power past the hard slopers to bolt 2. I always traversed in to the first bolt from the often-wet crack on the left, usually with a spotter. If it's too damp to have fun, come back when it's been dry outside for a few weeks and the whole experience will be much better. It's not a bad idea to put a 15 or 30cm runner on the bolt under the big roof to minimize drag going over it. This also gives you a gentler fall with less acceleration toward the wall if you burn off there at the lip. Then clean it on rappel instead of lowering to avoid damaging your rope on the edge of the roof. If someone in your party wants to TR it, put a quick on bolt 2 because most falls happen below there. So all in all this is not a very convenient route to climb compared to most sport routes but it's challenging and has some great movement.