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Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

You Bet Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Gallagher
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Dave E on Feb 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Description 

Start in the dihedral left of the arete. Bolts 1 and 2 are just right of the arete. R rating unless stick clipping Bolt 2.

Protection 

4 bolts.


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By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 21, 2014

I don't know what to say about this route other than today was the first time I've ever not been able to do a single move on a route. Maybe I'm having withdrawals from my recent trip to HCR and the sandstone or maybe I had an off day on route finding but I was thrown off this route time and time again today. I had to rap off the 5th bolt and retreat in defeat.

For the grade I can honestly say I've been humbled. I would love to see someone, anyone, climb this route and make it look like an 11c.
By Mark Pell
Jan 10, 2015

This route has been credited in several guides to Kevin Gallagher but was actually put in by me and Bret Ramsey in the early-mid 1990s. Kevin may have installed the single bolt above and left of the route's present anchor location to inspect or toprope the line but apparently he never cleaned or climbed it or installed protection bolts. It remained abandoned for at least two years before Bret and I cleaned and bolted it. If Kevin would like to discuss this matter I invite him to contact me here on Mtn. Proj. by email.
By BrianLee
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Obviously this route doesn't receive much traffic, apparent by the ferns growing up the dihederal and the still bits of *chossy blocks near the third bolt. I gave this route three stars because I do think that once it's cleaned up a bit the line could be a classic, 5.11c/d.

It offers dihederal climbing(with stemming stances better than jade), to pulling two roofs.

  • If you are the belayer stay away from the possible loose blocks trajectory near the third bolt:)
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