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Routes in West Face, Right
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15 Minutes of Fame S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bachar-Yerian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Big Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ciebola T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Circus Circus T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Dress Rehearsal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dude Looks Like a Lady S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Golden Rose S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Hill Crest Drive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lead Doll S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Mercury Falling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peace S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Raging Waters S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Shady Rest S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Shard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shiner S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shipoopi! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Slider-Banger T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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You Asked For It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | John Bachar and Ron Peers 7/81 |
| Page Views: | 6,905 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Clark on Oct 14, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The appropriately named "You Asked For It" ascends the largest black streak on the right end of Medlicott. It features enormous runouts over sustained and difficult climbing; another bold statement route from Bachar.
There are two options for the approach pitch. Both end on a broad ledge below the steep, imposing headwall.
1) Wander directly up the black streak on grainy rock with funky climbing and poor protection. 5.10
2) Start further right and climb a giant left rising flake at 5.7. This is likely the better option.
Pitch 1 After the approach pitch, set a belay to the left behind a good flake with 3/4" to 1.25" cams. Work up and right on balancy, cranker moves to the first bolt at 15 feet. Carry on with more of the same to the second bolt at 45 feet. Continue right to better holds then back left and eventually the belay. This is a very serious pitch with ledge fall potential for a good portion of it. "5.10c" X, 75 feet
Pitch 2 Head straight up off the belay wondering where the holds went to the only bolt at 30 feet. Continue up on smeary, difficult slab climbing to a stance ten feet from the belay. Compose yourself and make one last hard move to the ledge and belay. Again, a very serious pitch. "5.10c" X, 115 feet
Pitch 3 Head up and right off the belay to an out of sight bolt 40 feet out. Continue up another 40 feet or so to a bizarre hole that takes a #3 camalot. Run it out another 50 feet to the belay. 5.10 X, 130 feet
Join "One Toke Over the Line" to the top and walk off or rap the route with two ropes.
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