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Hen and Chickens
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Yosemite Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,928
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jun 6, 2002

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Description 

This is the [50 foot] splitter jam and offwidth crack on the formation 100 feet left of the main Hen and Chickens formation (the question is, which is the Hen and which is the Chicken). Jam up the progressively widdening crack to the top. [Hands, fists, and a hint of the OW at the top.] Set a belay in cracks above (there may be bolts - I don't remember). Scramble off right ot left. [It can easily be top-roped off of gear.]

Per Charles Vernon: take the approach trail which branches left after about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail (marked for Bowls of the Owls/Hen and Chicken). Go to the base of Hen and Chicken Rock (see routes 60-63), and scramble a short ways west to the base of the crack.

[Ed. This description includes 2 submissions...simplifing this to one entry in the database.]


Protection 

Rack to #4 Camalot.



Photos of Yosemite Crack Slideshow Add Photo
August 8, 2002.
August 8, 2002.
So good.
So good.
Digging deep at the top of Yosemite Crack.
Digging deep at the top of Yosemite Crack.
August 8, 2002.
August 8, 2002.
Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
Fist jams for me!
Fist jams for me!
The Yosemite Crack.
The Yosemite Crack.
YC.
YC.
Comments on Yosemite Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 1, 2014
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 6, 2002

This route is already on the site, under Twin Owls (this small rock lies up against Twin Owls). Incidentally, there are no bolts on top, but it is easy to TR off of clean gear.

By Brad Brandewie
Aug 22, 2002

Is this really 5.9? It seems a lot harder to me.

By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Aug 22, 2002

I thought it seemed pretty tough, but, I tried to lie it back too much on the upper section, and after I felt like I would have suffered less by staying more in the crack... 5.9 seemed about right for the area though. Definitely seemed a grade or so harder that the first part of Wolf's Tooth which is an 8.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2002

No liebacking required - excellent jams the whole way except for the last few widish moves, but those aren't so bad. Getting the feet in where it turns to fists and bulges a little bit was the crux for me.

If this is at, or as in my case beyond, your limit, bring one piece bigger than a 4 Friend - I was sandbagged into leaving the 4 Camalot on the ground, and I was a shaking mess topping out.

I thought it was full credit 5.9 and certainly not the 9- Gillett calls it, but if I can lead it it can't possibly be 5.10

By David Warriner
May 4, 2003

Great climb but a total sandbag. I think this was harder than Dementia at Happy Hour which is a 5.10a. Of the few 5.10s I've led, this is harder than any of them and more strenuous.

I got exhausted and I shamelessly rested on my gear. 5.9 A0 for me. Fortunately we had double cams in big sizes or I never would have made it.

On a weird note, when my buddy did it and I seconded it, I went in my approach shoes and found the foot jams to be easier.

By Chris Fisher
May 8, 2003

Great jams all the way. Not as hard as other Lumpy 5.9s but still a lot of fun. Used a Camalot #'s 1, 2, and 3.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 31, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Booty, did you see that biner about 12 feet back in the crack? :) How the...

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 4, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Interesting. Kimball rated it 5.8+, Gillett 5.9-, Rossiter 5.9. Jams are good enough, you can stretch your day one more pitch, despite rain. Tape is nice. Allen will tell you, don't layback the sucker, especially in the rain. Jam it!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2005

A #4 Friend will also come in handy, protecting the scrunchy bellyfolppish topout move. -Sloth

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2005

Resist the urge to lieback the crack. Good crack technique is all it takes. 1 #2 Camalot, 2 #3 Camalots, 1 #3.5 Camalot, and 1 #4 Camalot will protect the meat of it. Once you bellyflop over the top, a couple mid-size nuts and .5/.75 Camalots will build a nice anchor.

By chris parks
Jul 31, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just did this today. I feel that this is a 5.9. I am not typically that good at fisting, but once it gets that wide the feet get really good so you can almost palm the inside of the crack while you work your feet up or get some sloppy fist jams. This was a good route and [definitely] a good one to practice for wide stuff.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2008

People with small fists like me may end up fore-arm jamming in up to elbows in sections of this one. Slow motion that way, but great climbing.

By Eric Dearing
Jul 12, 2008

fun climb. It's short, but the couple moves of offwidth (like Tony, forearm jams for me) had me panting by the top...don't let the perfect jams at the start lull you to sleep. I thought it felt harder than Rooster Tail, but pretty similar in difficulty to other 5.9 offwidth climbs.

By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's pretty obvious from the top, but the walk off is to the left, not the right as stated above.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 12, 2011

Really? I walked off to the right...(I think?).

By ssimonson09
From: Tacoma, WA
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I've done this thing on TR a few times, it's freaking hard! At the same time, wish it went on for another few hundred feet!

By chris magness
Jul 12, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A few notes:

This pitch is not 50 feet, more like 30 feet and a few more back to an anchor stance that takes #1 and #2 Camalots, nor is it an offwidth (perhaps if you're a 5'4", 95 lb., trad chick!). My fists are a 3.5, and I had jams the whole length, rattly at the top with one #4. Approach shoes made for good feet. Stiff 5.9 seems like a reasonable grade. Well worth the effort. Walk off to the right.

By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Oct 15, 2013

Agree difficulty is hand-size dependent. Rougher texture than Yosemite cracks, tape or bleed!

By jordan cocanower
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 1, 2014

Excellent! Good jams the whole way! Gets a little wide up top, but definitely a Lumpy 5.9!