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Yosemite climbing instructor

Original Post
Kush Khandelwal · · San Francisco · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

I'm looking to fill up gaps in my trad climbing knowledge and wondering if somebody can suggest a climbing guide / school? I'm looking for help with learning how to be a better multi-pitch leader, as well as learning some self rescue skills.

I also happen to be going to Yosemite valley this weekend and ideally can find something for this weekend.

(I did look into the Yosemite Climbing school but they don't have any group classes available and the privates are waaaay too expensive).

Thanks!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Kush,

I think YMS is the only legally authorized guide service in Yosemite. You could go to the eastern Sierra, Joshua Tree or Red Rock to find many more guide services available.

By the way, you get way better instruction with a privately-guided course. But, as you noted, it is more expensive.

Kush Khandelwal · · San Francisco · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

Thanks Frank

MT head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

There is some " pirate guiding " that does happen. But as previously states the current concession is with DNC. Some of these pirates are more than qualified to guide you. But remember dead men tell no tales

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

YMS has a monopoly, which is why they are overpriced. You could try Camp IV, ask around if someone wants to help teach you. Maybe offer something of value. There are pirate guides, some of which are even more qualified than YMS staff, but they dont exactly advertise so you kind of have to be in the know.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
20 kN wrote:YMS has a monopoly, which is why they are overpriced.
Not really - they seem to be about the same as most other popular areas based on the quick check I did for Red Rocks, the Gunks, and Eldorado/Boulder.
John Vanek · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

"Expensive" is relative. If you want to improve your multi pitch leading study some good books, practice placing pro and anchors. Then spending a day with a guide who understands what you want to achieve can validate / tweet your systems. You can learn a lot in one day and it will be well worth the expense. The problem with "Leader courses" that have more than one student is that the guide has to match the student with the least amount of knowledge, so if you are ahead of the curve...

Many years ago I spent one day with an ASI guide; I learned a bunch, and became confident about what I already knew. Well worth the investment.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Marc801 wrote: Not really - they seem to be about the same as most other popular areas based on the quick check I did for Red Rocks, the Gunks, and Eldorado/Boulder.
For their day guiding, yes. But did you look at the price of going up El Cap? It's $4600 not including tip and tax if I recall right. You can go to Camp IV and find someone to climb El Cap with for free, even if you're a gumby. Plenty of other gumbys at Camp IV that need a partner.

Oh, and for what it's worth, they dont let you lead and you have to be on two ropes when you jug.
Kush Khandelwal · · San Francisco · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
John Vanek wrote:"Expensive" is relative. If you want to improve your multi pitch leading study some good books, practice placing pro and anchors. Then spending a day with a guide who understands what you want to achieve can validate / tweet your systems. You can learn a lot in one day and it will be well worth the expense. The problem with "Leader courses" that have more than one student is that the guide has to match the student with the least amount of knowledge, so if you are ahead of the curve... Many years ago I spent one day with an ASI guide; I learned a bunch, and became confident about what I already knew. Well worth the investment.
John, that's totally correct - no doubt that knowledge from a good guide is invaluable - but just like anything else in our capitalist country, I want to shop around :)

And good advice regarding the superiority of a private guide....
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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