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The Yosemite Boulder Area
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Very Bad Idea, The 
Yosemite Arete 

Yosemite Arete 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,571
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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lily crimping on the yosemite arete

Description 

There is never chalk on this one. Maybe because it's quite tall. Fortunately, the crux is down low. Start on the left side of the arete and slap up on technical ground with a few reachy moves and small feet. Scary moves at a crack/corner lead to a horizontal crack already high off the deck. Then make a great traverse left in the do-not-fall zone to the path of least resistance to the top (summit). Downclimb cracks and chimneys on a different side.


Location 

The big boulder close by Kalbro


Protection 

Pad - downclimbing ability



Photos of Yosemite Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Justin Guarino on 'Yosemite Arete' v4
Justin Guarino on 'Yosemite Arete' v4
rob on the arete, lily and josh look on...
rob on the arete, lily and josh look on...
Comments on Yosemite Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 2, 2008
rating: V5 6C

I had to climb this one with a brush in my mouth just to clean off the sloper before the crux move. The move can be friction dependent.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 22, 2009
rating: V4 6B

I may be thinking of a different problem, but I didn't thihnk that this problem was hard, just tall and scary. It's on the backside of the Yo boulder like you're heading towards Kalbro. It's the really tall arete that follows a crack system up to the big horizontal breaK?

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 22, 2009

i believe your right nhclimber... and i would agree that it doesnt look too hard but i would much rather not risk that fall haha

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 23, 2009
rating: V4 6B

I got sandbagged into climbing it and had no interest in trying the fall.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 26, 2010
rating: V4 6B

great climbing but f*ck that sloper, you don't need it. Also, if you get thru the crux there's really no chance of falling up high

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 28, 2013
rating: V4+ 6B+

Agree with Adam. You don't need the sloper, though it might be useful for some people. I felt the crux was the move to reach the flake/corner. Whether this feels like v4 or v5 is likely dependent upon reach, as several moves and the crux are probably a little bit easier for taller folks.

Absolutely outstanding rock quality and aesthetics. Wish there were more climbs like this at Pway!