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Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The 
Yorkshire Gripper 
Unsorted Routes:

Yorkshire Gripper 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,552
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 26, 2007
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the first crux of the Yorkshire Gripper
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yorkshire Gripper climbs the beautiful cracks up the center of a blunt prow left of Popeye and the Raven. Expect fairly solid finger jamming to a well-defined crux where the crack peters out.

Beta alert: I received the excellent advise to dispense with pro through the crux section. Simply load up the crack before the crux and punch through the crux moves without thinking of pro. After the crux, you should get a pretty good stance from which to place gear. The crux is pretty short and the gear before it is very solid.


Protection 

SR with extra small TCUs



Photos of Yorkshire Gripper Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Yorkshire Gripper, just before the crux. Photo by Ron Long
Climbing Yorkshire Gripper, just before the crux. ...
Cruxy top-out. <br />Photo by: Flint
Cruxy top-out.
Photo by: Flint
Comments on Yorkshire Gripper Add Comment
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2008

I second backing up your last piece of gear in the crack. I took a big fall on this one and landed about a foot above the ledge on the route. Yikes!!!

By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Aug 7, 2009

I actually thought the crux was the very last bit, getting up to the top ledge. Maybe it was just more mental, but I thought it was harder and more committing than the "crux" in the middle of the route.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Aug 26, 2010

I agree with Lizzy. The direct start over the overhang was pretty easy. The mid-crux between the two cracks while a crux, IMHO it was insignificant compared to the end.

For a rack several BD 0.5 (purples) fit beautifully after the overhang in the direct start, in the lower crack and in the upper crack. I used the suggestion about small TCU's but only placed on and it wasn't really necessary. for me 0.3 (Blue) BD camalot to 0.5 (purple) BD camalot and a yellow one for the direct start

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2011

Edit to the route description/location. This climb is actually a ways left of Crime of the Century (16 routes left of it in the 2001 McLane book). More accurate to describe this route as left of Quarryman. I think the new L->R sorting on this site gets it right.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 15, 2011

Thanks Clayton. Yes, saying it's left of Crime was a bit of an understatement. I updated it a bit. Fortunately the route sorting feature helps with this sort of thing now.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed

By AJV
Sep 19, 2013

The redpoint on this one took me a few tries. I usually start to get tired of climbs that I have to work on multiple attempts, but this climb is flowy and interesting and I'll continue repeating it. One of my favourites in the bluffs if not Squamish.