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East Buttress
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Yorkey's Crumpet 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Sullivan, 1975
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: S.Mckinna on Aug 5, 2011

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Description 

Thnis is an excellent route! The climb shares a start with another good climb called The Bush.

Pitch 1: Go up the wide crack first pitch of The Bush and belay. I can't remember if there are bolts there, but it is a rap station.

Pitch 2: Continue up The Bush about halfway, then traverse 20 feet right with a good crack for pro/holds. Belay at an exposed ledge, turning a corner, using hand gear and something smaller. Great position, semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 3: This beautiful pitch traverses an exposed ledge right to a perfect, left-facing corner. I remember the corner to be wide hands mostly.


Location 

This is past the Jungle Gym Area, to the right, on the lower east buttress. It is just right of an obvious line, Contentment Chimney.


Protection 

A set of TCUs and a double set of Camalots up to #1. Triples #2 & #3 plus a #4. Lots of runners. I think we lugged a #5 up and didn't use it. 2 single rope rappels. Rappel 100 feet off the top on a tree, to the left, above the bush. Then rap 70 feet or so to the ground.



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