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 ADVANCED
Achean Pronouncement
Select Route:
Dangling Fury S 
Dark Obsession T 
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 
Lingum Direct T,TR 
Northeast Arete T 
Third Eye T 
Yoni T 

Yoni 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown, probably solo
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    Fountain Crack and although cleaner and more solid, it is only about 1/2 the length, and thus, not as good. It's also wider for nearly all of its length. Rossiter's book suggests to "jam" it, but other than a chicken wing, arm bar, or heel-toe, one is unlikely to jam this thing at all. The face holds on the right and left provide ample opportunity to avoid practicing O.W. technique at all. I wondered while climbing this if the conspicuous pocket on the left wall was in part a namesake of the route.
    Such a short climb in a canyon full of giants is hard-pressed to get a rating better than "good" no matter its quality. Nevertheless, this pitch has some good rock and good moves.


    Location 

    This route is the wide, low-angle crack between the Lingum's right side and the main wall of the Achean Pronouncement. Approach as for the climb "Electric Fountain Crack"-- a pain in the butt to get to, mostly walking around on loose ground and pine needles on ledges.


    Protection 

    A #5 Camalot will go in about 1/5 way up. A #6 might go lower or higher. A #4 Camalot protects the second at the very top-- a directional prior to a traverse to the rap anchors.



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