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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Goddess
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Amrita T 
Isis T 
Nephthys T,TR 
Warlock T 
Yoni T 

Yoni 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Pebby Johns starting up Yoni.

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Description 

Approach: Hike up around the right side of the Wall of the Dead to the upper tier of Avalon. Traverse left on a trail below the routes Jaguar and Black Tiger. After about 100 yards, you'll see a 35-foot-high wall on the right with two 2-bolt anchors, and several cracks lacing the wall. This is the Wall of the Goddess.

Yoni is the crack on the left, heading up to the left 2-bolt anchor.

Climb the crack and step left to the anchor. I used Aliens and Camalots to #2 for pro.

Rossiter calls this 5.9 on his website, but it seemed easier.

Protection 

Finger-to-hand-sized pro. 2-bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Yoni Slideshow Add Photo
Yoni, the left crack on the Wall of the Goddess.  ...
BETA PHOTO: Yoni, the left crack on the Wall of the Goddess. ...
Wall of the Goddess.
BETA PHOTO: Wall of the Goddess.
Looking down the crack.
Looking down the crack.

Comments on Yoni Add Comment
Show which comments
By ac
Jul 26, 2005

Aaahhh...leave it to that badass Rossiter to name a climb properly. I like it. Elixer amrita. Here's to daydreaming about the source, and the goal...

om.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a nice crack, but it is nowhere near 5.8! The bolted anchor is also exceptionally lame.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I'm new to crack and lead climbing and I got up this thing no problem. Either I'm getting better, was having a good day, or this thing is only 5.6 or thereabouts. Great hand crack though! Wish it was longer! I protected it with two larger (#12/13) BD stoppers and a #2 (yellow) Camalot only.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is mostly a 5.6. There may be one 5.7 move at the bottom, but that is it. The route is fun though. Too bad it is so short.