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Yonah: Kid Fears Direct?
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By DanP
From Georgia
Apr 8, 2013
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The direct line up and past the thin flake crimps straight to the last bolt of Kid Fears is a fun, challenging top rope. If a SS removable bolt were to be added beside the crimps in ground up fashion, would it likely be chopped?


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By s f
From GA/CO
Apr 8, 2013

The variation you describe has been on the radar for decades and has been done on TR. Several parties have discussed bolting it but obviously no one ever has. While it may be a bit of a squeeze job, if you decide to proceed ground up and with good hardware I do not see a strong argument in favor of chopping. Just put the bolt in a place such that the crux moves are well protected and the rope won't interfere with your feet or risk inverting you.


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By RadDawg
From NE, GA
Apr 8, 2013
Sunrise over Cashiers valley

sf is spot on. Michael Crowder was working that line years back and it became an open project of sorts. Ian Bailey TR'd it in recent years and said it'd go ok with 1 bolt. I kinda thought it'd need more than 1 but my old fingers can't handle that kind of climbing these days so I don't know. Some routes on that section of wall were ground up and some not. Bolting it correctly is more important than doing it ground up on that route- at least thats my opinion FWIW. It'd be a worhwhile addition and I think its unlikely anyone would chop it, although stranger things have happened.


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By DanP
From Georgia
Apr 8, 2013
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The beta I found easiest to pull through the crux has me thinking that a bolt just to the left of the crimpy dishes/flakes would protect the crux pretty well compared to having it on the right. It may be good to have another once you gain your stance after the crux so that if you blow your clip on the last bolt you aren't looking at big fall potential. If it seems pretty safe with just one, I'd prefer to leave it at that though. Thanks for the responses.


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By s f
From GA/CO
Apr 8, 2013

As to the question of whether to add a second bolt past the crux on a direct start variation to Kid Fears, my opinion is no. (1) The existing routes should get "priority" and not be cluttered by additional hardware. A second bolt in this case may be too close to footholds on the dike traverse of Kid Fears. (2) The right side slab routes at Yonah all share a common theme, Much like classic NC slab, they are runout but generally adequate to prevent ground-fall (after the first bolt). A bolt at the crux should be all that is needed to keep the route true to this style.

BTW, I would not recommend hooking on those flakes while placing the bolt on lead (for your sake and the route's). I may be setting myself up here, but IMO it is probably better to rap in, do it right and not destroy the crux holds with hooks (or take a digger, drill too low, drill crooked, etc.) trying to sketch it out on the sharp end over zero or highly marginal gear.


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By DanP
From Georgia
Apr 9, 2013
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SF, that is a really good point. One will be fine if placed high enough. I was definitely questioning the security of the flake and I know a stance drill would be too low. Thanks again for the reply.


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By DanP
From Georgia
Apr 10, 2013
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Well I went out there this afternoon and I must say I chose the hottest, muggiest day yet this year. I was thinking on the way up there that one bolt would be enough, but after a while of staring at it from the bottom I thought that Jody may be right about needing two. I went at it ground up and put the first bolt in from a real good stance with a hand drill in a spot that would allow you to clip without having to start working up on the thinner slab first yet still keep you safe to pull the crux. I then added one about 5-6ft above the first one because I felt that if for some reason someone blew clipping the final bolt up high, they would be in a world of hurt without it there. I don't think the second bolt is too close to any foot holds of Kid Fears nor do I think it clutters the route. I ended up going with Fixe 3/8" x 2-3/4" SS wedge bolts with Mad Rock hangers. Although not removable, they are pretty bomber! This is one of my favorite routes at Yonah and I hope others get to enjoy it as much as I did!


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