This is another great Flatiron classic. It is a little different than your standard, "easy" Flatiron route. Half way up the east ridge, you climb over the longest arch in Boulder. Try not to think too hard about what would happen if it breaks. The final pitch is airy, since it traverses the overhanging west face through some ledge systems. The rock is solid, except for a 10 foot section.
P1 & P2: Follow the east ridge for 400 feet. Stay within a few feet of the south edge to enjoy the exposure.
P3: Climb on top of a 6 foot boulder that is against the NW corner of the summit block. Traverse the ledge system moving up at the obvious points. The bucket holds appear as you climb to kept this at the 5.0 level.
Descent: Downclimb the last pitch or do an overhanging rappel off of the NW side of the summit block. Don't forget to Yodel....
Me and Greg heading up the start of the ledges on ...
BETA PHOTO: Rap anchor at the summit of Hammerhead. Numerous s...
Gingerly traversing the ledge as it weaves through...
Matt beginning the rappel down the West face of Ha...
Matt sticking the 1 handed mega-dyno at the top ou...
The Third from the summit of Hammerhead.
|By Mike Sofranko|
Dec 13, 2001
Quite a heady route for a mere "F3". The last pitch heads straight right with the ground dropping away below - super exposed. Take your time and find the easiest way. If you're downclimbing, definitely take a moment and do what it takes to remember where to head down from the summit.
|By Scott Thompson|
May 5, 2002
Great climb! This rock is easily accessed from the Royal Arch Trail if coming from the north: after the descent from Sentinel Pass, look for a large boulder that is propped up against the face of a rock (this rock is Two Move Rock), which is right next to the trail. just past this boulder, hike up about 60 feet to the base of Hammerhead--theres a nice belay seat against a tree. P1 goes up on mediocre rock, past a bunch of trees, to a flake on the south edge, which you can sling for belay. P2 goes over the beautiful arch (with superb exposure!) on impecable rock up to another flake for belay. the climbing is very easy here, but the exposure and ok pro keep you on your toes. incredible pitch!!!!! P3 goes as described--the summit and rap are worth the very short P3, which is great fun anyway! enjoy this beauty of a climb!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 15, 2003
Easily one of the best 4th class routes around. The climbing varies from fairly calm to keeping on your toes. Good fun all around, highly recomended.
|By Paul Weiss|
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Climbed up to first flake. But here we angled north a bit and crossed over the gap, don't forget to look down. Belayed at a huge tree. From here climb a slab and then there is a cool crack with friction for the feet. Offers up a couple hand jams and then climb over towards the left through a gap and walk off. Obviously we should have stayed towards the left for Yodeling Moves..... but entertaining none the less. Not much pro and the crack move was harder than 5th class. A healthy solo alternative that leads to a walkoff, but no summit.
|By Rick Blair|
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
The first 2 pitches were like an approach climb for the summit. After the start head out to the very edge for climbing about as exciting as 5.0 gets.
When I saw the final pitch it looked so improbable at easy 5th class, it has to be harder. Once you get on it, the holds just appear, you can literally "walk" across the traverse to the final moves. I would put this pitch at 4th class and one of the finest summits in the flatirons, a true classic! I protected the traverse with 3 bomber large finger to hand sized tricam placements.
The sum of this climb is much greater than its parts and can only be understood by doing it.