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Darth Vader
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Yoda 

Yoda 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Smith 2/96
Page Views: 4,606
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (130)
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hannah clipping the last bolt

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Description 

Yoda is what I look for in a 5.9 sport climb, and is one of my favorite warm-ups... Also a very popular first 5.9 lead....
For a relatively short climb, you will get a great variety of movements and techniques out of it....
A steep, strong start leads to a great foot hold out right where you rest a minute and figure out this cruxy section (jamming and fingerlocking will help) as you get over the bulge, but most people just keep pulling till the angle eases up a bit....
A short slab leads to a crack finish up awesome super grippy rock....

There is often a line for this route...though it's worth the wait, you are at Rumney, there are tons of killer 5.9s out there... Climb a few and come back on the way out when the line is gone and the sunset light makes the view breathtaking....


Location 

Left-most sport route at the crag....


Protection 

6 bolts to quick clips...don't TR off the quickies, use some draws so the clips last longer....



Photos of Yoda Slideshow Add Photo
hannah cruising up yoda on a way-too-hot day in july
hannah cruising up yoda on a way-too-hot day in ju...
Mike M on the upper parts of Yoda.
Mike M on the upper parts of Yoda.
i dont remember a jug here on my last 50+ runs on this route, i think some one dug it out... photo by mike t
i dont remember a jug here on my last 50+ runs on ...
a chilly day on yoda
a chilly day on yoda
Elin working Yoda
Elin working Yoda
Elin on the crack at the top of Yoda
Elin on the crack at the top of Yoda
Start of Yoda
Start of Yoda
My dad leading Yoda on a cold April day (you can't see it, but it was snowing)....
My dad leading Yoda on a cold April day (you can't...
Isaac on yoda...
Isaac on yoda...
one more of yoda photo by mike t
one more of yoda photo by mike t
Elin found a sit rest on this route... must be nice to be small...
Elin found a sit rest on this route... must be nic...
Unlce G starting Yoda.
Unlce G starting Yoda.
J. Dias leads Yoda. I thought this was a really nice and varied route; steep at the start to a really nice slab with cracks at the top.
J. Dias leads Yoda. I thought this was a really ni...
me low down on yoda... photo by mike t
me low down on yoda... photo by mike t
Eric on Yoda
Eric on Yoda
doing yoda on gear.. fun route no matter what you clip  <br />photo by mike t
doing yoda on gear.. fun route no matter what you ...
the first half of Yoda
the first half of Yoda
Comments on Yoda Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 13, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I just climbed this route the other day and was surprised to find the top part so difficult. I guess after all of the thugish climbing in this area, it just feels foreign to stand on your feet.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great climb, one of the best in this grade range and Jay i couldn't agree more looking at the top it seems as if you will cruise it but when you hit it, it seems foreign due to Rumney's bully style but it is a great reminder of what technique is really like...

Also does anybody else think that this route could potentially be done on gear, it would be sketchy and run out at the bottom, but does it seem possible to anyone else?

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 23, 2008

Matthew... i definitely agree! i would love to try that sometime... the top could definitely take cams though!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Yes the top could be very easily protected but I think the bottom would take a little more intuition to place safe gear.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2008

this thing would go on gear quite well... ill do it sometime and tell you how it goes.... thanks for the idea...

i did once do a link up of this route in to the top crack of Darth Vader (5.9) which is the best way to enjoy the upper crack of that route...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Lee that does sound fun i will have to give it a try sometime because i love the top of darth vader but the bottom leaves a little to be desired...

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Aug 4, 2009

No way.. the bottom of Darth Vader is super fun.. sharp steep rumney jugs. Re: yoda on gear I think gear would fit above the first boulder problem.. then it might be a bit sketch till you get to the slab.. upper part should protect well. that upper crack is a cuticle shredder

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 3, 2010

I did finally get on this thing on gear today... it was PG the whole way... super fun, great gear, every piece i placed was right near a bolt (classic rumney haha)... keep clipping the bolts if thats your favorite game but if you are looking for a good 5.9 gear lead go for it, the bolts are right there if you spaz out :)

By J Meagher
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Great route with an overhanging juggy start and nice technique moves to the top. I haven't led this yet because it's super easy to toprope. Just hike up to upper darth vadar and keep walking left along the wall till you see this smooth rock ledge with a few trees on it. The trees are pretty solid (especially if you use three) and the anchor is easy and quick to build. Just remember to anchor yourself as you're setting up the toprope: the drop-off is very steep!

By losbill
Oct 22, 2012

Best enjoyed while leading with two people shouting, very earnestly, conflicting beta to you. Especially when one clmbs 11+ with an ape index off the charts and incredible grip strength and the other is your favorite partner, who I love dearly, who is somewhat less than 5 foot tall and weighs all of 90 lbs, and who was belaying me and wasn't tied down, and climbs 5.9+ on her best day!!! Visions of impacting the sharp boulders just beneath me danced in my head. All ended well! Kind of ignored both sets of beta, sorry Jake and Amy, and got the onsight.