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The Fortress
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Orifice Politics 
Pitched Battle 
Quartz Jester 
Rupley Route, The 
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Sneak Attack 
Steel Crazy 
Tres Frijoles 
Twice As Nice 
Unattended Consequences 
Yo Yo Pinnacle 
Unsorted Routes:

Yo Yo Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Baker, Marti Woerner, Scott Williams, Mark Axen, Kem Johnson, 1975
Season: Fall
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: climber pat on Jul 19, 2009
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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a full-on trad route and will provide an adventure for the sport climber.

Pitch 1. climb the top of the pinnacle. Traversing left out of the chimney on to the face is probably nicer.

Pitch 2. Climb through the left overhang.

Pitch 3. Follow the weakness to the top. This pitch could be considered R as the runouts are quite long but the climbing is easier.



Location 

See squeezing the lemon, pg 306, 307.

To get down, 4th class to the top of the fortress and then walk off to the trail.


Protection 

There are not any bolts on this route to guide you. I used camalots to 0.5-4, smallish TCUs, 0.5-2 Tricams and medium nuts.



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