YMCA Right Variation  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet FA:  ?? Submitted By:  Joe Keyser on Oct 11, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This crack forms a big Y in the southside cracks area of the Dome. The left crack is is a thin hand crack/layback. The right crack is wider, and has some good jams.

The first section starts out in a short, wide-ish crack leading up to a ledge just below a triangle shaped roof. It is likely that you could continue through this ledge in one pitch, but, I stopped here for a closer belay. From here, climb up a bushy dihedral for about 20 foot, then take your choice of directions for the roof. Going right, I found some hand jams, and good pro. Top out through some ledges, and a short wide section in the corner. The crux section is fun with some good exposure. The rest of the climb has some fun moves, but, it has it's share of bushes, and loose rock.

There is a good decent to the climbers right from the top. Scramble down the gully for about 40 feet towards some big chockstones at the top of a chimney. There is a slung chockstone here with rap rings. One-rope rappel to the base of the climbs.

Protection 

Standard rack, maybe a couple extra in the medium-hand size. A 4 camalot protects the crux well, and there is a good yellow alien placement after the roof.