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1st Pitch: Great laybacking pitch, gets greasy/slick higher up, with interesting moves to exit onto the ledges. Sustained. (10d)(120ft)
2nd Pitch: Off width pitch, doesn't seem to get as much traffic? (10a)(130ft)
The first (money) pitch can also be top-roped after leading Hari-kiri (10a) as they share anchors
About 150' up and left of Manana, obvious right facing lieback for the start.
Standard rack including thin for the first pitch.
2nd Pitch? Gear to ??
You can lower off the first pitch with a 70m (watch the end). Not sure about the second pitch, bring two ropes just in case.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Jul 7, 2011
The first pitch is the Yin, and the second the Yang.
I've only climbed the first. It's quite sustained and slick, pretty unrelenting really. Clean your shoes off before hopping on this one.
From: San Jose
Sep 12, 2011
I always felt that Ying-Yang is one or two letters grades harder than Maniana, like 11a vs 10c.
Both great climbs tzo
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 1, 2011
P2: pro to 5''. And then you're running it all the way out until the last move. It's not hard (I mean, the chimney; the OW is another story), but your belayer can stop belaying after awhile. There's no place to protect the chimney. If you want that last move protected, bring up a .3 BD/green alien sized cam to protect the undercling. If Ahab is 10b, then I suppose this is rightfully 10a. Like wide climbing? Then the second pitch has your name all over it.
I thought the anchor was suspect, but Clint, my bolt replacing expert of a partner determined it was solid, so we left it alone.
From: San Jose
Jun 25, 2012
Second pitch is very good and remarkable. The pitch is long ~140 feet
The first part have two sections of 5" pure ow- and cruxes where your knee can not fit in .
If you do this as hands stacking+ high foot -it felt as 10b/c .
It can be 10a if you laybacking those sections- but I did not try.
After you enter chimney - different climb start. You can and should protect chimney since in some sections it does not feel secure. There is many opportunities for #5 and #6 and one placement in the middle for #4. BigBro N 4 - almost all the way.
double from #2 to #5 plus gear for chimney
|By The Other James|
Apr 15, 2013
About the Yang (2nd) pitch: I have confirmed you cannot get down with one 70m.
On the upside, while going back up with a second rope on TR, I also confirmed that Alexey is right in that liebacking is a lot easier. As to the grade, it surprisingly similar to the first OW pitch on Mental block (i.e., not a whole lot easier).
To protect the chimney, I used a C4 #4, #5, #6 and alpinista83's green alien at the very top and it felt mostly safe.