Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Sharon Kloepfer and Mark Rolofson, 7/13/08
Page Views: 1,131 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Jan 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

About ten feet right of Reach for the Sky, climb steeply past three bolts. An amazing jug/flake allows cranking up over a bulge, to clip the fourth bolt. Because there is nothing positive enough to use from this position, I moved back down a bit, then reached left to a big hold and manteled over the bulge from that side (5.10). I clipped bolts up a slab that becomes invisible under an extensive crust of crustose lichen. Using my fingertips, I removed lichen from a key roughness, teetered up and desperately clipped the last bolt in the slab (eighth overall and in the middle of a big patch of thick lichen), then fell and lowered to a rest. From the rest, I moved left, climbed the upper part of Reach...'s flake, underclung diagonally right under the overhang, reached far right to clip B8's draw, then moved up into more underclings, reached way high and left, clipped B9 (just below the lip), cranked for the lip, and yarded up high enough to clip and grab long chains (5.10d+ to do all of this).

Protection Suggest change

Nine bolts to chains.

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