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Yeti Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Sasquatch 
Yeti 
Yeti Direct 
Yowie Project, The 

Yeti Direct 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Logan Walters on May 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Andy Patterson sticking Yeti Direct. (Photo courte...

Description 

Start with high with left hand in crimp side pull. Right hand on three finger sloper just to the left of Yeti. Work the feet high enough to dyno to the good holds of Yeti. Finish straight up.

Location 

Yeti Sasquatch Boulder

Protection 

pad


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By Logan Walters
May 30, 2012

The climb may be more like V7 but it is hard to rate a one move climb. Someone else may have a better feel on the actual rating.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 30, 2012
rating: V7 7A+ PG13

Bernd and I did this a year or two ago. We agreed on V7. We can't prove the FA (I was the first to stick it that session), but I never got the feeling that climbers had any interest in this line. Too esoteric, I suppose. And as a matter of course, I think it's kinda lame to claim FA's on "eliminates", unless the problem is exceptionally good, so I won't say I did it first.

With bad conditions, this rig feels impossible. When it's cool and dry, however, you feel pretty mighty sticking the dyno. Fun line.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 30, 2012
rating: V7 7A+ PG13

Also, for those interested in some more obscure send-history, here's a vid of my wife sending Yeti, then a crew of us doing Yeti Direct (Climbers: Mary Skokut Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Thomas Townsend). Sorry for the poor quality video...
By Bob Banks
Jun 1, 2012

1. Unquestionably done in the 90s. Perlin, Leube(?), likely others.

2. Choss. I've probably broken hundreds of footholds off the crap rock at the base (okay, that's an exaggeration). I guess maybe it's cleaned up?

3. Why would Yeti Direct be attributed the nonsensical sub-rating of 'PG13'? Yeti is a completely safe, flat landing, perfect height boulder problem. Does the direct version go over a chasm I haven't seen?

4. One move boulder problems should be the easiest to rate, no?

5. Patterson: video fail! Also, your action shot is too big. Can you edit it so I don't have to adjust my window size?
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 1, 2012
rating: V7 7A+ PG13

1) Yes, complete fail. I wish I could edit it. The suck-video was shot on a crappy little digital camera. I'll try harder next time, or I'll simply take stills.

2) I'm also confused about the PG13 rating.

3) People have been climbing this more, so yes, it has "cleaned up".
By Bob Banks
Jun 1, 2012

Hmmm...the fail wasn't on video quality. Thing is, I don't see a video at all.
By Logan Walters
Jun 1, 2012

PG-13 removed.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jun 3, 2012

I'm not sure if we ever did this. I certainly tried it but, like Bob, said, it was really chossy so it was never worth more than trying something different. I remember a day where a bunch of us were trying it but just can't remember. If we did do this move we for certain did the standard Yeti finish. The top of the boulder was always a mess in those days and it wasn't until we began trying Sasquatch that I made an effort to clean it up in a way it might stay clean. Could totally be a worthy problem now though since that boulder must get a ton of traffic and could be infinitely cleaner, especially true with its own finish.
By Tim King
Dec 2, 2012

Don't know how I remembered seeing this on APats blog, but here ya go:
imgonnaregretthis.blogspot.com...
(bonus Yeti send!; Yeti Direct starts at 1:45)

Jeez this rain is causing me too much lurkiness..