Yeti Direct 

The climb may be more like V7 but it is hard to rate a one move climb. Someone else may have a better feel on the actual rating.

Bernd and I did this a year or two ago. We agreed on V7. We can't prove the FA (I was the first to stick it that session), but I never got the feeling that climbers had any interest in this line. Too esoteric, I suppose. And as a matter of course, I think it's kinda lame to claim FA's on "eliminates", unless the problem is exceptionally good, so I won't say I did it first.

With bad conditions, this rig feels impossible. When it's cool and dry, however, you feel pretty mighty sticking the dyno. Fun line.

Also, for those interested in some more obscure send-history, here's a vid of my wife sending Yeti, then a crew of us doing Yeti Direct (Climbers: Mary Skokut Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Thomas Townsend). Sorry for the poor quality video...

1. Unquestionably done in the 90s. Perlin, Leube(?), likely others.

2. Choss. I've probably broken hundreds of footholds off the crap rock at the base (okay, that's an exaggeration). I guess maybe it's cleaned up?

3. Why would Yeti Direct be attributed the nonsensical sub-rating of 'PG13'? Yeti is a completely safe, flat landing, perfect height boulder problem. Does the direct version go over a chasm I haven't seen?

4. One move boulder problems should be the easiest to rate, no?

5. Patterson: video fail! Also, your action shot is too big. Can you edit it so I don't have to adjust my window size?

1) Yes, complete fail. I wish I could edit it. The suck-video was shot on a crappy little digital camera. I'll try harder next time, or I'll simply take stills.

2) I'm also confused about the PG13 rating.

3) People have been climbing this more, so yes, it has "cleaned up".

Hmmm...the fail wasn't on video quality. Thing is, I don't see a video at all.

PG-13 removed.

I'm not sure if we ever did this. I certainly tried it but, like Bob, said, it was really chossy so it was never worth more than trying something different. I remember a day where a bunch of us were trying it but just can't remember. If we did do this move we for certain did the standard Yeti finish. The top of the boulder was always a mess in those days and it wasn't until we began trying Sasquatch that I made an effort to clean it up in a way it might stay clean. Could totally be a worthy problem now though since that boulder must get a ton of traffic and could be infinitely cleaner, especially true with its own finish.

Don't know how I remembered seeing this on APats blog, but here ya go:
www.imgonnaregretthis.blogspot.com/2011/08/yeti-goes-down-in>>>
(bonus Yeti send!; Yeti Direct starts at 1:45)

Jeez this rain is causing me too much lurkiness..