Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn - Sept 4, 2015
Page Views: 3,185 total · 30/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a link up of Steady Yeti into the top of Mountain Minor that may be even better than the original routes. Beautiful finger and hand crack climbing up a vertical wall of peach colored granite.

Stick clip the bolt at the start of Steady Yeti by coming in a bit on the ledge from the base of Bigfoot. Figure out the tricky sequence to move past the bolt to gain a horizontal where you can place a cam with a shoulder sling out left (I used a.75 Camalot). Finger pad edges get you up to the start of the crack. Head up the crack to about half way up the wall to just before the main crack arches right, and break left on a good angling fingercrack that takes you to the left side of the face to join Mountain Minor. Once you get to a stance at a horizontal below the upper face, put a cam out far to the right (purple or grey Camalot?) The gear is better out there and any potential fall is cleaner. Your next pro is a slung flake, then you do a couple mildly spicey balancey moves before you can get in some good nuts and gain the sweet right angling hand crack that takes you to the top.

Location Suggest change

The Bigfoot area, on the sheer wall just left of the landmark sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for the high single bolt at the start.

Protection Suggest change

A 60m rope will just get you down, so knot the end. Stick clip the first bolt as some of the holds getting to it are friable and the landing is very bad (good rock afterwords). Single rack of nuts and cams to #3, double of the green .75 Camalot. The route seems to eat offset nuts well, including the bigger ones. Bring a few shoulder length slings. Two bolt anchor with rings

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