The first pitch is 5.10 or so and a little runout in places offering both natural gear and 1/4" bolts to clip. The second pitch is the crux and absolutely never runout once you reach the first bolt(which is not hard to get to). Bring some small crack gear for the last bit of the crux pitch and to add to the two 1/4" bolts at the anchor. The last pitch is protected by very good natural gear and one bolt and is 5.10 as well. The route is very sustained and exposed and absolutely stellar climbing. It may be wise to bring a knife and some extra rappel sling to replace old stuff with. We replaced the first and third anchor rappel slings.
Standard rack ranging from a few rp's to hand sized, and plenty of quickdraws for the second pitch(16 I think).
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 5, 2003
Just a few tidbits-the FA Party was Cindy Tolle, Paul Muehl and Pete deLannoy. The route is 5.11c-first pitch 5.9, second 5.11c, and the 3rd 5.10b. It took us 3 days to climb the route. It is a good line but the rock quality on the headwall is not stellar-the good pro makes up for it. Thanks-Cindy Tolle
|By CURT LOVE|
Feb 10, 2004
Yo Cindy,The headwall does have poor rock and maybe some holds on it were better even ten years ago. I tried pretty hard to onsight it, so that could be the reason why I say it, but as a onsihgt it was way harder than the "leaning Jowler"11+"Modleing in the nude" 11c, "Honey I shrunk my nads" 12/11dI could name a few others that I have onsighted but who cares, but you would be intrested to know that I have flashed spearfish 12a "no problem" and those grades are based somewhat yours' and petes' system. If you protest this maybe you should go climb it today and see how it feels to you, and let me know how it felt. I thought after I had fought all the way up the arete that it was over then the traverse hit and a akward little corner crux that stumped me a bit. You know it could have been 11c and maybe it still is but it is hard for that grade, I think. Good job on the route though not one spot is really scary so you can just take in all that air. SWEET Love Curt
|By Greg Parker|
Feb 11, 2004
To this day, repeating this route is one of my most memorable ascents. Nate Renner and I did it in November of 1995. I too missed the onsight of the 2nd pitch, falling at the very top traverse. Got it 2nd try. I agree with Curt on the rating. I feel that it is 12a for sure. Regardless, it is fantastic! The exposure can't be beat.